The Magical flavors of the Dolomites – Fine Dining by Michele Shah [Part l]

Alta Badia lies in the heart of the mountainous chain of the Dolomites, which the famous architect Le Corbusier declared to be “the most beautiful work of architecture in the world.” The Fanes-Senes-Braies Natural Park and the Puez-Odle Natural Park, both of which are situated in Alta Badia, are part of the Dolomites and easily reachable from Venice or Milan

A UNESCO World Heritage site since 2009, the Dolomites is comprised of a mountain range of 18 peaks that rises above 3,000 meters, featuring breathtaking vertical walls, sheer cliffs and a high density of narrow, deep and long valleys.

The Dolomites is famous for skiing, but not only!  Its picturesque towns and villages such as San Cassiano, Corvara and Colfosco situated close to its mountain peaks, or cradled in its many valleys traversing Alta Badia, Val Gardena, Arabba and Val di Fassa make the Dolomites an ideal place to plan a holiday winter, spring or summer.

What really makes this area special, in addition to breathtaking scenery, is its excellence in hospitality and fine dining – indulging and satisfying the senses at high altitude is what they do best in Alta Badia.  The Dolomites offer an amazing experience be it in winter for winter sports or summer for the sunny breezy days and cool evenings which allows one to trek, mountain climb, bike or walk in the Dolomites or just visit the small villages and enjoy the wonderful light, intense green landscape, bight skies, and sunshine.

The cooking of Alto Adige derives from distinct heritages, one Italo-Venetian, the other Austro-Tyrolean, but the intermingling of peoples drawing on shared resources along the Adige Valley has taken the sharp edges off the contrasts. Something akin to a regional style of cooking has emerged combining the best of Alpine and Mediterranean cuisine and this is what emerges from the top dining locations in the charming resorts of Alta Badia where you can find the highest peaks.

Nestled at the foot of the mountains is the charming village of San Cassiano which houses one of Italy’s top *** Michelin-starred restaurants’, St Hubertus*** awarded with a green star in the Michelin Guide.  St Hubertus is part of the Rosa Alpina – An Aman Partner Hotel in San Cassiano.  One of the historic hotels of the area which has years of experience in making one’s stay one of the most eclectic experiences.

Chef Norbert Niederkofler is the creative spirit of St Hubertus, which offers a fine dining experience of pairing signature dishes of Chef Niederkofler to top fine wines from around the globe as well as hidden local gems, a wine list that counts some 2.600 labels and a well-stocked cellar with 20,000 bottles selected by wine director Lukas Gerges.  The wines of the area from Trentino and Alto Adige offer some wonderful unique grape varieties, with whites characterized by stony, mineral freshness and bold and fruity red brambly wines.  There is also a terrific sparkling range to discover as well.

The Pizzinini family has run the Rosa Alpina Hotel for three generations. Hugo, the current owner, can be found at any moment helping to pack a breakfast hamper for a romantic trek or discussing where to find the finest ski slopes for powder snow and five minutes later, looking for one of Rosa Alpina’s best Champagnes to chill for a favored guest’s lunchtime arrival.  Their big news is that they are about to undergo a total face-lift, a complete restyling of the hotel to offer real Luxury accommodation with large 45sq meter and 75sq meter rooms as well as suits and full apartments.  No doubt this will be a move away from a traditional style to a re-vamped luxury style maintaining the same thumbprint of exquisite taste, comfort and charm which is what they are known for. The official opening will be in December 2024.

Talking of exciting cutting-edge dining experiences, the Cocun Cellar Restaurant run by Jan Clemens Wiser and his all under-30 staff is noteworthy.  The dining experience is located in the (large meandering) wine cellar of Ciasa Salares Hotel, which stands just outside San Cassiano.  Jan Clemens has personally selected 2,000 labels/19,000 bottles from some of the funkiest, biodynamic, and natural producers of Europe, many labels of course come from local producers in the area, as does the fresh seasonal produce that can be found in the equally creative menu.  Surrounded and sitting between rows of bottles you dine on massive wooden tables tastefully set out in separated areas sectioned off by shelves of wines.  This sets the atmosphere and pace, inviting you to explore further this fantastic selection and world of wines, many of which are offered by the glass.

Before leaving the dining, a must is to drive a few kilometers down the valley to Corvara, to visit Hotel La Perla’s hidden jewel, which lies underground in its cellar, a real mausoleum dedicated to Tuscany’s Tenuta’ San Guido’s eclectic wine, Sassicaia.  A visit to the cellar is a truly unique experience and takes one to the temple of Sassicaia comprising some 2,000 bottles of its different vintages, in fact, an entire room dedicated to every single vintage from start to date of Sassicaia, one of Italy’s benchmark wines of excellence.

La Stüa de Michil’s fine dining historic restaurant at la Perla’s exclusive hotel in Corvara is another experience that is not to be missed.  Chef Simone Cantafio’s has recently been awarded his first well-deserved Michelin star for his exquisitely prepared dishes.  The atmosphere in this authentic old ‘stube’ made up of many small dining rooms is really something special and symbolic also of the local Ladino culture.

With so much fine dining it’s a good thing that the Dolomites and the area of Alta Badia offers so many paths for hiking, walking, and bike trails, just so that one can justify all the good meals and wines.  The good news is that if you are hiking or biking, there are plenty of great restaurants at altitude where you can stop for a simple meal and refreshments to a full gourmet meal.  Just to mention a few, Club Moritzino restaurant and bar at 2,000 metres, open in summer and winter offering some of the best and freshest fish which is flown in daily from Chioggia near Venice.  Its tantalizing menu of fine fish dishes includes fresh lobster, prawns and oysters, as well as pan-fried bream, seabass, John Dory, Turbot and much more exquisite fish.

Another favorite is Rifugio Ütia de Bioch Hut in the midst of the slopes, also at around 2,000m which not only offers excellent views but also fine authentic Ladino dishes with a modern twist, accompanied by a wide selection from some of Alto Adige’s top wines.   There are many more great places but I’ll let you discover these as there is always something new to discover in the Dolomites.

Alta Badia has some of the world’s top ski instructors and experienced mountain guides eager to guide you around the beautiful scenic slops. In winter one can ski, or join snow walking excursions, in summer there is real mountain climbing at altitudes and gradients as well as gentle walks in the pine forests.  The Dolomites is famous for the ski excursion of the four passes, which takes one into the Val Gardena and over some spectacular mountain scenery.  Its extensive area of slopes which are all inter-connected allows for some of the best skiing in the world.

The Dolomites is famous for Sellaronda ski excursion of the four passes, which you can reach from San Cassiano, Corvara and Colfosco traversing four Ladino valleys Alta Badia, Val Gardena, Arabba and Val di Fassa, over some spectacular mountain scenery.  Alta Badia’s extensive area of slopes which are all inter-connected with the Super Ski Dolomiti pass includes 450 lifts and 1200 slopes, which makes it easy to ski over to Cortina or Corvara or to the Marmolada glacier, one of the highest peaks, which reaches some 3350 metres.  Views from here as from many other heights are amazing and this is what makes the Dolomites stand out above so many other ski destinations.  The higher you go the longer the slopes, so don’t miss the Marmolada glacier and the 12km descent to Malga Chapela.

Ski Dolomites https://www.skidolomites.it/ offers single and class lessons and has also been awarded the GOLD seal certification for ski school for children.

The Gourmet Ski-safari takes place on the slopes and allows you to share a culinary experience with star chefs of Alta Badia presenting their favorite dishes paired with some of the best South Tyrol wines (Alto Adige Trentino appellations) wines.  This event celebrates the official start of the culinary winter season on the slopes and is where you can meet Michelin-starred chefs creating unique dishes, prepared with seasonal, top-quality products – a hallmark of the region. It’s called a ski-safari because you ski from one mountain hut to another, trying each chef’s creations.

It’s quite unique and great fun to join the Wine Ski-safari which offers a similar expedition on skis across the valleys skiing for mountain hut/restaurant to hut enjoying the region’s multitude of wines. It’s a unique experience to taste some of Alto Adige’s best white, red and sparkling wines at an altitude of 2,000 meters.

For more information on the dolomites where to stay where to eat you can explore this very useful website: https://www.skidolomites.it/en/ski-school-lessons-alta-badia.htm

For ski school and ski lessons and excursions contact: https://www.altabadia.org/en/winter-holidays/italian-alps/ski-resort-alta-badia.html

lavilla@skidolomites.it  Tel +39 0471844018

sancassiano@skidolomites.it  Tel +39 0471840011

armentarola@skidolomites.it Tel +39 0471840001

 

Restaurant St Hubertus (3-star Michelin)
Rosa Alpina – An Aman Partner Hotel
San Cassiano in Badia – (Bolzano)

www.rosalpina.it
www.st-hubertus.it

Wellness Residence Ciasa Antersies
(excellent self-catering apartments in San Cassiano with great views)
Via Soplá, 12
I-39030 San Cassiano in Badia (BZ)

info@ciasaantersies.it
www.ciasaantersies.it


Cocun Cellar Restaurant
Hotel Ciasa Solares
San Cassiano in Badia – (Bolzano)

https://www.ciasasalares.it/en/restaurants/cocun-cellar-restaurant


La Stüa de Michil
Strada Col Alt, 105,
Corvara in Badia – (Bolzano)

https://www.laperlacorvara.it/it/la-stua-de-michil/
www.hotel-laperla.it

Club Moritzino – Café Restaurant Terasse
Piz La Ila

www.moritzino.it

Rifugio Ütia de Bioch Hut
Top of chairlift „Biok“

www.bioch.it

30 minutes from Piz Sorega
50 Minutes from Piz La Ila, or Col Alt, or chairlift Pralongiá I


Snow walking excursions in the Dolomites

SCUOLA SCI DA FONDO ALTA BADIA San Cassiano  www.scuolafondo.it

Ski & Snowboard in the Dolomites – E-Mail: info@skidolomites.it – Web: www.skidolomites.it

Alta Badia –website offers excellent info in the area: www.altabadia.org/en/alta-badia-italian-alps-dolomites.html

Part ll to follow… Wine in Trentino Alto Adige, a taste of the Dolomites
– by Michele Shah

 

Nebbiolo, a milestone for exploring the magnificent wines of Barolo, Barbaresco and Roero wine destinations [Part 2] – Filippo Magnani

Nebbiolo Prima 2021 is an important tasting that embraces the wine areas of Barolo, Barbaresco, and Roero, the champions of Piedmont. Considering this particular period, my colleague Filippo Magnani was very fortunate to participate in the 25th edition, hosted by Albeisa at the end of March 2021.

Part 2 continues ….

Barbaresco 

The area of production includes the entire territory of the villages of Barbaresco, Treiso and Neive, plus part of the territory of the Alba municipality.

Wine denomination DOCG

(controlled and guaranteed designation of origin)

Grape Minimum ageing Released on the market 
Barbaresco Docg100% Nebbiolo26 months, of which 9 in woodfrom the 1st January of third year after the harvest
Barbaresco Docg Reserve100% Nebbiolo50 months, of which 9 in woodfrom the 1st January of fifth year after the harvest

 

Tastings Barbaresco DOCG  2018  (57 wines reviewed)

Overall the Barbaresco’s this year turned out to be soft, fruity with good structure and balance. This is partly a reflection of the vintage which started cool and finished warm with nice weather during harvest.

 

 

 

On my radar:

Winery: Giuseppe Cortese  – Barbaresco
Wine: Barbaresco Docg 2018 Rabajà

Deep garnet core with ruby tinge. Intense bouquet of black cherry and prune with note of rhubarb. Good structure with medium-plus acidity, medium alcohol and leather overtones. Velvety tannins, well integrated with the fruit.

Winery: Pasquale Pellissero – Neive
Wine:  Barbaresco Docg 2018 Bricco San Giuliano 

Bright, deep garnet colour. The nose rich in blueberry and forest floor perfumes. Nice, vibrant entrance in the palate. Medium body and harmonious structure with dried prune and liquorice. Quite a long aftertaste.

Winery:  Cascina Alberta – Treiso
Wine:  Barbaresco Docg 2018 Giacone

Medium garnet core, paler towards the edge. The wine displays intense flavour of cherry, balsamic overtones and light earthy notes. The palate expresses ripe red cherry, blackberries with a hint of vanilla. Good acidity, firm tannins and long finish. I really like it.

My pick:

Winery:  Cascina Morassino  – Barbaresco
Wine:  Barbaresco Docg 2018 Ovello

Intense and brilliant garnet colour. Pronounced intensity of dark cherry and plum with spicy notes of liquorice. Medium plus acidity, full-body wine with silky good tannins and toasty light notes at the end. Excellent wine.

Tastings Barbaresco DOCG  2016 RISERVA   (15 wines reviewed)

I found a wide range of great wines, showing high intensity and complexity of aromas. I have tasted well balanced wines with body and finesse, signs of an excellent vintage with long and constant ripening of the Nebbiolo.

On my radar:

Winery: Albino Rocca  – Barbaresco
Wine:  Barbaresco Docg 2016 Riserva Ronchi

 The colour is deep garnet with a compact rim. Intense bouquet of cherry with floral notes of violet. Scents of spices, tobacco and fig. A dry, full body wine with good acidity, well balanced structure and medium ripe tannins. Elegant.

 My pick

Winery: Cascina Luisin Barbaresco
Wine: Barbaresco Docg 2016 Riserva

Bright with deep garnet core. Pronounced flavour of blackcherry with scents of roses. Spicy notes of liquorice. Rich in structure and strong freshness. Good balance of body, fruit, acidity and velvety tannins. Long, vibrant, finish. Outstanding wine.

Barolo 

Barolo is made in eleven ‘communes’ or village territories: Barolo itself, La Morra, Monforte, Serralunga d’Alba, Castiglione Falletto, Novello, Grinzane Cavour, Verduno, Diano d’Alba, Cherasco, Roddi.

 Wine denomination DOCG

(controlled and guaranteed designation of origin)

Grape Minimum ageing Released on the market 
Barolo Docg100% Nebbiolo38 months, of which 18 in woodfrom the 1st January of fourth year after the harvest
Barolo Docg Reserve100% Nebbiolo62 months, of which 18 in woodfrom the 1st January of sixth year after the harvest

Tastings Barolo DOCG  2017  (202 wine reviewed)

The 2017s showed ripe fruit and good structure with great aromatic intensity. A sufficient level of acidity guarantees freshness to almost all wines. In general, I tasted good wines that proved the hard work of the producers during an uneasy season.

 

 

On my radar:

Winery:  Mauro Molino  – La Morra
Wine:  Barolo Docg 2017 Bricco Luciani

Medium garnet core with narrow tawny rim. Great nose with ripe plum, spicy notes of liquorice and rhubarb. Slight notes of leather. Medium  body with ripe red fruit and freshness. Moderate coarse tannins. Quite a long finish.  I really appreciate it.

Winery:  Cascina Ballarin  – La Morra
Wine:  Barolo Docg 2017  Bricco Rocca

Bright with intense garnet core and paler rim. The wine displays ripe red fruit and floral notes of violet with hearty overtones. Exuberant and full body in the palate, elegant fruit and velvety tannins. Long, fresh finish. Very good wine.

Winery: Enrico Serafino  – Serralunga d’Alba
Wine:  Barolo Docg 2017 Meriame

Medium garnet red turning slightly twarny. Pronounced bouquet of black cherry, dried prune and fig. Overtones of coconut and the scent of tobacco.

Winery: Conterno Fantino – Monforte d’Alba
Wine:  Barolo Docg 2017 Ginestra Vigna Sorì Ginestra

Brilliant, deep garnet colour with compact rim. Various and intense aromas of ripe plum, blackberry and chocolate. Rich in structure, with persistent ripe fruit well balanced with the soft tannins. Fresh long finish. I like it.

Winery: Oddero  – Castiglione Falletto

Medium garnet core, paler on the rim. The nose shows beautiful flavour of blueberries. Spicy with a hint of mint. On the palate is elegant with overtones of black cherry and fig. Dry, medium plus body, silky tannins and a long finish. Great wine.

My pick:

Winery:   Poderi Luigi Einaudi – Barolo
Wine:   Barolo Docg 2017 Cannubi

Clear, deep red garnet colour. Intense flavour of dark cherry and prune. Light  notes of eucalyptus and hint of pepper. The mouth is dense with medium soft tannins and toasty hints. Elegant wine with long and pleasant aftertaste. This is an excellent wine.

Tastings Barolo DOCG  2015 Riserva  (31 wine reviewed)

In general, the wines were balanced showing good ripeness and discrete alcohol level. Averagely rich in tannins with long finish. To me these riservas showed great potential.

On my radar:

Winery:  Bric Cenciurio Barolo
Wine:  Barolo Docg 2015 Riserva Coste di Rose 

Intense garnet red colour with pale tawny reflections. Complex nose with intense flavour of dark cherry, liquorice and cinnamon. Fragrant, with juicy palate with present acidity. Discrete alcohol level and soft tannins. Long finish. Really good wine.

Winery: Silvano Bolmida – Monforte d’Alba
Wine:   Barolo Docg 2015 Riserva Bussia 

Deep garnet core with paler rims. Pronounced intensity of ripe plum and prune with overtones of tabacco. Lovely ripe blackcherry in the palate. Well-integrated into a medium body with round, fine tannins. Fresh delicious finish.

My pick:

Winery:  Fenocchio Giacomo  – Village: Monforte d’Alba
Wine:   Barolo Docg 2015 Riserva Bussia 90 

Brilliant, deep garnet core with pale tawny rim. Intense bouquet and aromas of ripe cherry with spicy notes of rhubarb and scents of leather. Well structured wine with high acidity. Beautiful aroma of blackcherry and velvety tannins. Elegant with long finish.  I love it.

Filippo Magnani – Wine Writer, DipWset, Wine travel expert in Italy

I want to thank you Liz Palmer, who

kindly proposed for me to participate and report on the
Nebbiolo Prima 2021, to represent her website

See you in Piedmont !

#nebbiolo #winewriter #winetravel #Italy #italianwine #Barolo, #Barbaresco #Roero #FilippoMagnani #NebbioloPrima2021 #Piedmont #Italianwinelovers #winelovers #instawine #winetasting #NebbioloPrima #winetasting #redwine #italy @filippomagnaniwine @albeisawines