2002 Vintage Champagne (James Bond understood the importance of vintage when it came to Champagne)

When thugs drag off Honey Ryder in 1962’s Dr. No, he brandishes a bottle to defend her. Warned by the title character that he’s grabbed a Dom Pérignon 1955 and “it would be a pity to waste it,” 007 coolly counters “I prefer the ’53 myself.”

Even under duress, it’s important to keep your vintages straight. The best come from those years when already glamorous Champagnes reach their zenith of seduction. The year 2002 is one of those. We are now enjoying the fruits of the foremost vintage since 1996. This trio of 2002s, each with its own personality, would certainly fit in with Bond’s lofty preferences: Moët & Chandon’s Brut Champagne Cuvée Dom Pérignon 2002 (Wine Spectator-rated 95, $160), Piper-Heidsieck’s Brut Champagne Rare 2002 (95, $275) and Bollinger’s Brut Rosé Champagne La Grande Année 2002 (94, $230).

The Dom Pérignon comes swathed in haute couture. It’s all about elegance and attention to detail, with its smoky richness and fine-grained texture. And that’s only a backdrop for the layers of biscuit, candied lemon peel, coffee liqueur, chamomile, pine and crystallized honey to come. Choosing roughly equal parts Chardonnay and Pinot Noir from grand cru vineyards, DP’s chef de cave Richard Geoffroy took full advantage of the flavor maturity in the ripe grapes and the powerful profile of the vintage.

The classy Piper-Heidsieck Rare is a mosaic of textures. It shows red berry and graphite flavors and a firm structure, with honey, toast and seashore notes. Silkiness completes the picture. While the grape blend is dominated by Pinot Noir (70 percent), chef de cave Régis Camus stresses the importance of Chardonnay (30 percent) sourced from specific crus when it comes to elaborating a Rare vintage. “Our quest is always for Chardonnays [that] are mineral in style.”

With its deep rose hue the Bollinger is dressed up to celebrate. With a sense of balance and seamless integration, the wine delivers juicy fruit flavors of ripe black cherry, pomegranate and cassis that are fresh and vibrant. The finish is long and lightly spiced. Bollinger ferments the base wines in neutral oak barrels, adding 7 to 8 percent red Pinot Noir from its tiny La Côte aux Enfants vineyard located behind the firm’s offices. It’s aged on the lees a minimum of six years.

You needn’t wait until your dining with a super villain, however. Popping the cork on any one of these Champagnes from the glorious 2002 vintage is sure to enhance any situation. But even Bond would find it difficult choosing just one.

Cigar Aficionado

Champagne Expert Coming To New Zealand To Share Secrets

Communications Director for Piper-Heidsieck, Christian Holthausen is coming to New Zealand to educate New Zealanders on the art of serving and drinking champagne.

The American-born champagne expert divides his time between Maison Piper-Heidsieck in Reims, France and traveling the four corners of the world sharing his knowledge of champagne production, history and culture.

Mr Holthausen represents two of the most prestigious champagne brands in the world, Piper-Heidsieck and Charles Heidsieck, both blended by Chef de Caves Régis Camus, awarded the “Sparkling Winemaker of the Year” trophy by London’s International Wine Challenge in 2004, 2007, 2008 and 2009.

Piper-Heidsieck has been producing champagne since 1785. Known for its extravagance and style, Piper-Heidsieck was the preferred champagne of Marie-Antoinette at the Royal Court of Versailles. and Marilyn Monroe who once famously declared that she started each morning with a glass of Piper-Heidsieck. Over the years, Piper-Heidsieck has worked with some of the biggest names in fashion and design, from Jean-Paul Gaultier to Jaime Hayon to Viktor + Rolf to most recently, Christian Louboutin.

Not one to be ignored, Charles Heidsieck has a rich history in its own right and is widely recognized as one of the most critically acclaimed champagnes by the most discriminating juries.

Few New Zealanders know that Robert Falcon Scott left Christchurch with several cases of Charles Heidsieck with him on his ill-fated journey to the South Pole in 1910, or that Queen Elizabeth II was served Charles Heidsieck by President Eisenhower on her first official visit to the United States after her coronation in 1952.

Mr Holthausen says he is looking forward to sharing his passion for the Champagne region -“Champagne is one of the most spectacular wines in the world, albeit one that needs to be demystified. It is perfect on so many occasions, from the simplest to the most extravagant,” says Mr Holthausen.

During his stay in New Zealand, Mr Holthausen will be hosting an exclusive Champagne Master Class before traveling around the country as part of the Hancocks Winemakers Tour, revealing some of the secrets of champagne to the nation’s top wine trade.