Category: Wines of Italy

Alto Adige: An Alpine Paradise for Wine Lovers and Outdoor Enthusiasts – Filippo Magnani

In September I participated in the 4th edition of the Alto Adige Wine Summit. This rather new event is the largest of its kind that focuses on Alto Adige wines and has already drawn significant international attention. Organized by the Alto Adige Wine Consortium, the event hosted 97 producers, 80 wine and media professionals including Masters of Wine from 12 different countries. The goal was to highlight to the world the complex nature and contrasting qualities that define Alto Adige’s authenticity.

Situated in the picturesque region of South Tyrol in northern Italy, Alto Adige DOC is the country’s smallest wine region and arguably its most complex. Over 98% of the region has the DOC certification. One of the Alto Adige Wine Consortium’s objectives have been to create a more detailed zonation and soil mapping to reflect its complexity. The region is divided into seven distinct growing sub-regions each linked to wine grape varieties, add to that breathtaking alpine scenery, a rich cultural heritage with diverse grape varieties. It’s no surprise the region has gained a reputation for being a must-visit destination among wine enthusiasts.

A Winemaking Crossroads of Culture

Alto Adige, also known as Südtirol, has a fascinating history that has shaped its winemaking traditions. Nestled between the towering peaks of the Dolomites and the Adige River, the region has been influenced by both Italian and Germanic cultures resulting in a fusion of traditions and winemaking techniques. The artisan skill, precision, and reliability from the North has married the charm, art of living and wine tradition from the South.

The region’s winemaking history dates back to ancient times with 2500 years of winemaking tradition, making it the oldest wine region in the German-speaking world. It was the Romans who first recognized the unique potential of Alto Adige’s vineyards. They introduced vines to the region, and over the centuries, grape cultivation flourished.

Climate and Terroir

Alto Adige’s unique climate and terroir play a significant role in shaping the character of its wines. The region benefits from a mix of Mediterranean and Alpine influences creating a cooler climate which helps retain the grapes’ natural acidity. Vineyards are situated on steep slopes, at varying elevations (200m – 1000+m) that provide excellent sun exposure. The high mountains in the north shield vineyards from the coldest northerly winds, but the combination of warm days and cool nights allows the grapes to ripen slowly, resulting in wines with vibrant fruit flavors and good acidity.

The diversity of the region’s soils also contributes to the complexity of its wines. From the limestone-rich soils in the south to the porphyry and schist in the north, Alto Adige offers a wide range of terroirs that influence the flavors and aromas of its wines. All geological formations are found here (volcanism, sedimentation, orogeny) and there are in fact 150 different types of rock. The composition of the soil can change drastically within a few meters. Such a rich land requires meticulous attention to detail.

A Medley of Grape Varieties

With such a complex terroir it’s no surprise that Alto Adige is known for its rich variety of grape varieties that thrive throughout the region. Here tradition meets innovation and change has been embraced by producers. The region used to be a land of reds with main native varieties Schiava and Lagrein, but now the production is 64% white wines using grapes such as Pinot Grigio, Pinot Blanc, Sauvignon Blanc, Gewürztraminer, Chardonnay, Riesling, Sylvaner, Veltliner, Müller Thurgau, and Kerner.

Gewürztraminer has historically been a popular grape grown here, known for its aromatic intensity and floral notes. However, many producers now have started to focus on producing high-end crus of Pinot Grigio and Chardonnay that express more complexity and structure. The region’s cooler climate and higher elevation lend a refreshing acidity resulting in wines that are crisp, elegant, and mineral-driven.

Among the red grape varieties, Lagrein has long been one of Alto Adige’s indigenous specialties. Lagrein wines are full-bodied, yet smooth and velvety, with flavors of dark berries, chocolate, and spices. This variety produces wines that can age gracefully and develop complex aromas over time.

Schiava, another red grape variety, is widely grown in Alto Adige and is known for producing light and fruity red wines with delicate aromas of red berries and floral notes. These wines are easy to drink and excellent when slightly chilled, making them perfect for enjoying on a warm summer day.

Pinot noir also thrives in Alto Adige and is one of the region’s best kept secrets. Many critics argue that these are the best Pinot Noir’s south of the Alps. Pinot Noir in Alto Adige is full of elegance and can exhibit intense fruit aromas, spice, flowers and earthy undertones.

A Strong Winemaking Community

Over the years the region has developed a strong sense of community among winemakers. A total of 5000 producers with only 5600 hectares of vineyards has created a region comprised mostly of smaller family-run estates with longstanding traditions. However, many are too small to make and market wine themselves, which is why a cooperative system was 150 formed 150 years ago. It is one of the pillars of the Alto Adige winemaking business.

Even if the “cantine sociali” used to be linked to massive productions, It is important to underline that these big entities, in the last decades, have aimed for excellence, trying to create the best expression of their land and generally reaching impressive results.

A Traveler’s Paradise

Alto Adige offers a delightful experience for wine enthusiasts and travelers alike. Its beautiful landscape, charming villages, and world-class wineries make it an ideal destination for wine tourism.

Many wineries in the region welcome visitors, offering guided tours of their vineyards and cellars with an opportunity to sample a variety of exceptional wines from aromatic whites to elegant reds and sparkling wines. Accompanied by local delicacies and paired with breathtaking scenery, the wine tourism experience in Alto Adige is truly memorable.

In addition to wine, if you’re an outdoor enthusiast or a culture lover, there is plenty for you to enjoy in this picturesque alpine wonderland. These breathtaking mountains, pristine lakes, and verdant valleys make hiking and mountain biking a popular activity, thanks to its extensive network of trails. From leisurely strolls through picturesque villages to challenging ascents up rugged mountains, there are trails to suit every level of fitness and experience.

The Dolomites, a UNESCO World Heritage site that rises up to more than 3,000 meters with forests, lakes and gentle green valleys that offer a unique play of light and shadow which is difficult to describe without experiencing them. They provide a stunning backdrop for rock climbing and Via Ferrata adventures. With their towering peaks and dramatic cliffs, climbers can enjoy breathtaking views and exhilarating challenges.

Water sports enthusiasts will find plenty of opportunities to indulge in their favorite activities. Lake Caldaro, the largest lake in the region, offers swimming, sailing, and windsurfing. The nearby Passo Resia and the Soasere Lake are perfect for windsurfing and kitesurfing.

During the winter months, Alto Adige becomes a winter playland for snow lovers. The region boasts numerous ski resorts, including Val Gardena, Alta Badia, and Plan de Corones, offering a wide range of slopes for skiers and snowboarders of all levels.

Cross-country skiing and snowshoeing are also popular activities, allowing visitors to explore the snow-covered landscapes at a more relaxed pace. The region’s winter hiking trails provide breathtaking views and a chance to experience the tranquility of nature.

Alto Adige is also renowned for its culinary delights, combining Italian and Austrian influences to create a unique gastronomic experience. One must-try dish is the South Tyrolean dumplings, known as “knödel” in German. These flavorful dumplings come in various flavors and are often served as a side dish or as the main course accompanied by sauces and local ingredients. Pair them with a glass of Schiava, Pinot Blanc or Pinot Grigio for a truly indulgent experience!

Alto Adige is also rich in history and culture, with influences from both Italian and Austrian traditions. Exploring the region’s towns and villages is like stepping back in time. Bolzano, the region’s capital, is a vibrant city with a mix of Italian and Austrian architecture. Strolling through the charming streets, visitors can explore historic sites like the South Tyrol Museum of Archaeology, home to the famous Ötzi the Iceman. The city’s Christmas market, one of the most renowned in Italy, is also a must-visit during the holiday season.

Merano, a spa town famous for its thermal baths, offers a blend of art nouveau and medieval architecture. The Kurhaus, with its beautiful gardens and stunning architecture, is a testament to the town’s elegance and grandeur.

Alto Adige is also home to numerous castles and fortresses, which are a testament to the region’s rich history. Castle Tyrol, Castel Roncolo, and Sigmundskron Castle are just a few examples that provide a glimpse into the region’s medieval past.

Wellness and Relaxation

The area is also renowned for its wellness and spa offerings, providing the perfect retreat for relaxation and rejuvenation. The region boasts a wide range of thermal baths and wellness centers where visitors can unwind and enjoy a variety of treatments. The Terme Merano, with its stunning architecture and luxurious facilities, offers a range of spa treatments and thermal baths.

A Territorial Concordance – Pairing Sistina Pecorino Terre di Chieti + Summer Truffle Risotto

For tonight’s wine pairing dinner, I decided to pair Sistina Pecorino Terre di Chieti with Mushroom Risotto. This pairing is “A Taste of Authentic Italy” more specifically, Abruzzo, a territorial concordance: the pecorino grape varietal and summer truffle.

Citra Vini, Abruzzo – Italy’s Inception was in 1973 and since that time, its mission has been represented by some of the most important grape varieties including indigenous varieties, in the province of Chieti.

The Wine: Sistina Pecorino Terre di Chieti
This pecorino is aromatic and bright; soft and elegant at the same time being complex, with an array of nuances – evoking tropical splendour interwoven with delicate floral notes; being full-bodied and a robust structure, it concludes with a long lingering finish.

The Food Paring: Summer Truffle Risotto

Why this pairing works
Firstly, both the wine and truffle are from the Abruzzo region, thus a territorial concordance or harmony. Secondly, the wine is rich in aromas, but without excessive body which will destroy the delicate character of the truffles – great pairing !!

“Barolo Week” with Fontanafredda Wines

Some lunches are just a bit more elevated than others, and this one was one of them! A group of us celebrated “Barolo Week” last week with Roberto Bruno, COO of Fontanafredda Wines at One Restaurant, The Hazelton Hotel, Toronto.  Roberto came from Alba, Italy for the exquisite food and wine pairing lunch, organized by Galleon Wines.

A great selection of Fontanfredda Wines were paired with some exceptional cuisine prepared by Executive Chef Darby Piquette.

Roberto walked us through the history of the wine estate; and the technical notes, vinification, aging, and tasting notes of each wine.

The wine and food pairing included:

  • Amuse bouche, belini with caviar, tuna sashimi bites – Paired with Alta Langa Contessa Rose Brut 2017
  • Beet salad with whipped chevre, granola and baby spinach – Paired with Gavi di Gavi 2020 and Timorrasso 2022
  • Tatlietelle (housemade) with shaved truffle – Paired with Barolo Platinum label 2019
  • Beef tenderloin, garlic pomme puree sauteed spinach, au jus – Paired with Barolo Seralunga d’Alba 2018 and 2019
  • Montebello pasteurized cheese – Paired with Barolo Vigna La Rosa 2013

The best pairing for me was the last one.  First of all tasting notes for the Barolo, include:

Medium garnet in colour; developing nose of dark red fruit, strawberry, black pepper, licorice, some smokiness, and leather; closely woven tannins almost velvety; offers firm structure and elegance; medium length finish.  An excellent Barolo!

Excellent pairing with this mature cheese due to its smokiness and strong flavors.

Website link: https://www.fontanafredda.it/en/

 

Let’s Discover the Wines of Barbera d’Asti & Monferrato – Part l

This jewel of Piedmont became part of UNESCO’s World Heritage Sites in 2014.  It is interesting to note, that this was the first time an Italian vineyard landscape “Monferrato, Piedmont” was recognized as having exceptional value by the UNESCO World Heritage Committee, and these landscapes were listed as such.

UNESCO states:

“are an exceptional living testimony to the historical tradition of grape cultivation, the processes for wine-making, a rural social context, and an economic fabric based on the culture of wine.”

I was thrilled to learn more about this exceptional area. I attended a Masterclass, a few weeks ago, which was conducted by the very knowledgeable Andrea Dani, at Palazzo Crova. For history buffs, Palazzo Crova, is a stunning example of an 18th-century noble residence in this region.

Andrea, a member of Associazione Italiana Sommelier, conducted an overview on Barbera D’asti DOCG, Nizza DOCG and Ruchè di Castagnole Monferrato DOCG.

The Consortium

The Barbera d’Asti and Monferrato Wines Consortium was founded in 1946 to protect and promote its denominations, and their image, on national and international markets. Currently, the Consortium has more than 404 membered- companies and 13 protected denominations.

Filippo Mobrici, Vice President of Barbera d’Asti and Monferrato Wines Consortium, says:

“There are many wine souls that find expression in Monferrato, and the Consortium has had the objective, since its inception, precisely to act as a bond to keep these multiplicities united, to promote the entire territory and its excellence in a unitary and uniform way.”

Barbera

Barbera is a northern Italian grape that produces fresh, light-bodied red wines with low tannins. Like so many Italian wine grape varieties, Barbera has ancient origins that traces back to the 17th Century. Barbera was first cited in 1798, in a document, by Count Giuseppe Nuvolone-Pergamo of Scandaluzzo.

With this history, Barbera likely originated in Piedmont, the region for which it is well known. Alongside Barbera d’Alba DOC and Barbera d’Asti DOCG, the grape also gives its name to the Barbera del Monferrato DOC and Barbera del Monferrato Superiore DOCG titles – all in the Piedmont region.

The “Barbera” grape variety is also referred to as ‘La Barbera’, treating it in the feminine context. This variety is challenging to cultivate as it produces many shoots, therefore requiring regular pruning and low yields. Century-old vines still exist in many regional vineyards. It ripens relatively late, has a unique balance between sugar and acidity, and is a deep ruby colour.

General tasting notes include:
Lively and bright colours, intense fruit aromas, spicey notes, some toasted and balsamic notes, crunchy acidity, low tannins and excellent food pairing options

Barbera can also be found outside Piedmont: Oltrepò Pavese, Colli Piacentini, Franciacorta, Umbria, Campania, Puglia, Sicilia, and has been adopted by winegrowers around the world: California and South America.

The Soils of Monferrato

The soils on which Barbera and the other Monferrato grape varieties are grown date back to 2 million years ago.  The sea began to leave the current Po Valley, initiating a process of landscape shaping that has characterized the change and the present-day conformation of the hills.

The soils, generally poor in organic matter, and often dry in summer, can be divided into two main types: white soils and Asti sands. White soils are more ancient and widespread in the Canelli area, southern Asti area, Alessandria area and the Casale area. The wines produced from these grapes are often full-bodied, rich in color, and are suitable for long aging. The sands of Asti soils spread mainly in the center of the Asti Monferrato area to the right and left of the Tanaro River and are found on much steeper hills. The wines produced from these grapes here are characterized by lower acidity,  ripen faster, and are more for immediate consumption.

                    Climate

The Climate in this area is Continental with hot summers (+/- 35 degrees), some drought and cold winters ( -/+15 degrees).  Rainfall between May and November is 700-800 mm/year.

Barbera D’Asti DOCG

Ancient farming traditions are representative in this area, which forms 116 municipalities in the province of Asti, and 51 municipalities in the province of Alessandria. 90% of Barbera is produced on the best-exposed hills of Asti and Monferrato. Barbera DOCG is usually harvested in the second half of September. Vinification is usually in steel, which produces fresher and more immediate wines, the use of barriques and barrels has developed, aimed at producing the Superiore which, tends to be more complex, and long-aging.

With respect to the organoleptic characteristics, the color is ruby-red, particularly intense in Superiore, tending towards garnet with aging. The aromas are intense: cherry, plum, dark berries prevail, which evolve into hints of jam, some balsamic, spicy, and floral notes. The taste is full, with great harmony. Aging often gives complexity and richness of velvet tannins and long taste-olfactory persistence.

Barbera D’Asti DOCG Timeline

1970 – Acquired DOC Barbera d’Asti
2008 – DOC Barbera d’Asti DOCG Barbera d’Asti. 3 subzones:

    1. Nizza
    2. Tinella
    3. Colli Astiani

2016 – Nizza DOCG (18 municipalities – Nizza Monferrato)

Production specifications include:

Territory: 167 municipalities in the province of Asti and Alessandria

Ampelography: min.90% Barbera grapes + 10% max other non-aromatic red grapes allowed in Piedmont

Yield: 9 ton/ha

Minimum natural alcohol content: 12%vol., 12.5%vol. Superiore

Minimum aging: 4 months – 14 months (Superiore, with min.6 in wood)

Nizza DOCG

Produced with only Barbera grapes, Nizza DOCG comes to life in the heart of Monferrato, in a production area that includes 18 municipalities. Nizza DOCG was in fact initially recognized as a sub-area of Barbera d’Asti and obtained its DOCG recognition in 2014.

These wines are usually aged for 18 months, of which 6 months in wooden barrels. Nizza DOCG is a wine characterized by intense aromas of cherry, plum and dark berries, which evolve into hints of jam, with some balsamic, spicy and floral notes. If aged in wood, the wine develops notes of cinnamon, cocoa and licorice. The taste is full, with great harmony. Aging gives complexity and richness of sweet and velvety tannins and long taste-olfactory persistence.

Nizza DOCG Timeline

1970 – DOC Barbera d’Asti

2000 – (vintage) Nizza as a subzone of the Barbera d’Asti Superiore Nizza

2008 – DOCG Barbera d’Asti

2014 – (vintage) Nizza DOCG (18 municipalities – Nizza Monferrato)

Ruchè di Castagnole Monferrato DOCG

It’s interesting to note, that the origin of the Ruchè varietal cannot be confirmed. Its history can be reconstructed of verbal traditions passed on from generation to generation.

Ruchè is one of the rarest native vines grown in the Asti Monferrato area, in calcareous, dry soils subject to great exposure to the sun. It obtained DOCG status in 2010 and its production now reaches one million bottles. Made with 90 to 100% Ruchè grapes (with Barbera and/or Brachetto grapes permitted up to a maximum of 10%), Ruchè di Castagnole Monferrato DOCG is distinguished by an intense and original bouquet, with floral and spicy notes, sometimes combined with hints of mixed berries and morello cherries. The flavor is dry, harmonious and pleasantly soft, with good aromatic persistence.

Wines of Barbera d’Asti & Monferrato
By the Numbers

404 associated companies

13 Protected designations

4 DOCGs:
Barbera d’Asti, Nizza, Ruchè di Castagnole Monferrato and Terre Alfieri

 9 DOCs:
Albugnano, Cortese dell’Alto Monferrato, Dolcetto d’Asti, Freisa d’Asti, Grignolino d’Asti, Loazzolo, Malvasia di Castelnuovo Don Bosco, Monferrato, Piemonte

In the Vineyard

The area claimed by all the Designations of the Consortium in 2021 was equal to 10,430 hectares.

4,142 hectares claimed to Barbera d’Asti DOCG

3,827 hectares claimed to Piedmont DOC

In the Wine Cellar

As of 2021, the total amount of bottled wine registered by all protected Designations was equal to 492,986.21 hl for 65,731,495 bottles.

Barbera d’Asti DOCG: 149,689.70 hectoliters and 19,958,627 bottles

Piemonte DOC: 275,696.83 hectoliters and 36,759,577 bottles

 Exploring Ligurian Riviera’s Enchanting World of Vineyards and Villages – Filippo Magnani

Italy has many picturesque wine regions, but the rugged dramatic coastline known as Liguria, or the Italian Riviera, is an improbable treasure trove for the traveling wine enthusiast. Curved around the Mediterranean, the small, terraced vineyards of Liguria dot the landscape from the French border along the west coast of Italy down to the famed Cinque Terre.

The region’s geography plays a significant role in shaping the distinctive characteristics of its wines. Located between the Ligurian Sea and the Maritime Alps, it is a land of both rugged landscapes and a harmonious climate. The unique combination of warm coastal breezes and mountain influences creates an ideal environment for viticulture. The cool maritime influence helps retain acidity in the grapes, while the sun-drenched slopes provide the perfect conditions for grape ripening. The steep grades of many slopes create challenging conditions for grape growing. Some vineyards are isolated on terraces that have been carved out of the cliff and are only accessible by boat. Winemaking traditions in this area can be traced back 2500 years to the Etruscans and Greeks.

The indigenous grape varieties in Liguria have adapted to the region’s particular terroir over centuries. High concentrations of limestone give them a distinct minerality. The region produces mostly white wines (75%) and its most prominent white grape is Vermentino, referred to locally as Pigato meaning ‘spots’ that develop on the grapes as they reach maturity. This aromatic variety thrives in Liguria’s coastal areas, producing wines with vibrant acidity, crispness, and a bouquet of citrus fruits and floral notes. The best examples are praised for their refreshing and mineral-driven profiles. Vermentino is often blended with two other white grapes called Bosco and Albarola.  Bosco gives structure and richness to these wines whereas Albarola can express notes of honey, flowers and perfume especially when made in the sweet style under the unique Cinque Terre Sciacchetrà DOC. For those who like rich and charismatic white wines the Cinque Terre.

As for red wines, Rossese and Ciliegolo and Vermentino Nero take the spotlight here. They create subtle and fruity wines that can show notes of herb and spice. Rossese wines are usually light-bodied and elegant, with red fruit flavors, floral nuances and delicate tannins. These wines capture the essence of Liguria’s terroir, reflecting its maritime influence and mountainous landscapes.

When it comes to tasting Ligurian wines, visitors will also be captivated by the region’s extraordinary food. The bright acidity of the region’s white wines complements the local seafood perfectly. Their citrus notes and hints of salinity provide a delightful pairing with dishes like seafood pasta, grilled fish, or even the Ligurian specialty, pesto. For red wine enthusiasts, their signature lightness offers a pleasant balance that doesn’t overwhelm the palate. They pair excellently with Ligurian-style pizza, salted cod dishes, or even a selection of local cheeses.

Of course, a visit to Liguria would not be complete without experiencing “The Five Villages of the Cinque Terre.” This string of ancient seaside towns nestled along the rugged coastline just northwest of La Spezia have earned themselves the coveted status as a UNESCO World Heritage site as a “cultural landscape” of extraordinary value.

Monterosso al Mare is the largest of the five villages, and it is also home to the only expansive beach in the region. The village is divided into two parts: the new town, where modern buildings and amenities can be found, and the charming old town, with its narrow streets and colorful houses. Monterosso is a great place to start your Cinque Terre adventure, with plenty of hiking trails and panoramic views to enjoy.

Vernazza is considered by many to be the most picturesque of the five villages. Its colorful alleyways and charming harbor attract visitors from all over the world. Vernazza is also home to the Doria Castle, which dates back to the 15th century and offers spectacular views of the village and the sea.

Corniglia is the only village in the Cinque Terre that is not directly connected to the sea. Instead, it is perched on top of a rocky promontory, surrounded by terraced vineyards. Due to its unique position and the effort required to reach it (by climbing 377 steps), it is the least visited of the five villages, making it an ideal spot for those seeking a more tranquil experience. On the hiking path from Corniglia to Manarolo you will find one of the best local wineries, Cantina Cappellini. Here you can taste wines in the middle of the terraced vineyards with stunning views overlooking the sea. Luciano Cappellini and his family have been making remarkable examples of Cinque Terre wines for seven generations.

Manarola is a small village that exudes charm and character. Its tall, colorful houses rise up the hillside leading up to the 14th-century church of San Lorenzo. Manarola is also home to the famous Via dell’Amore (Lover’s Lane), a scenic path that connects Manarola to Riomaggiore.

Riomaggiore, the furthest south of the five villages, is a lively town with vibrant houses that cling to the steep hillside. Its bustling harbor is always busy with fishing boats that provide a steady supply of fresh seafood in its cozy restaurants. Riomaggiore is also home to the ancient Church of San Giovanni Battista which offers stunning views of the village and the sea.

Between Riomaggiore, Vernazza and S. Stefano Magra and Castelnuovo Magna, are 6 hectares of special vineyards cultivated by a talented winemaker named Walter de Battè. Leaving behind his life as a sailor he decided to follow in his father’s footsteps and take up viticulture. In 2003 Walter founded the Primaterra label with a group of friends and local experts. His philosophy is to produce wines that express the union between man, grapes and terroir. Both his whites and reds undergo considerable skin maceration to capture the unique qualities of their territory.

If you continue a little further south past La Spezia you will reach the picturesque town of Portovenere, sometimes called the “Sixth Town” of the Cinque Terre which also has UNESCO World Heritage status. Overlooking the Gulf of La Spezia you can take in the same views and archipelago that enchanted the 19th-century writer Lord Byron. The natural beauty here is truly breathtaking. Enjoy the numerous hiking trails along the coast or take a boat out to Palmaria island where you can dine at the legendary Locanda Lorena seafood restaurant. Portovenere itself also has plenty to discover, from the Doria Castle to the numerous boutique shops and restaurants offering the best of Ligurian wine and cuisine.

If you’re looking for memorable places to visit while tasting these delicious wines and local dishes, there are a few places that stand out. In the north of Cinqueterre, Portofino is a traditional fishing village with sophistication and elegance that attracts celebrities and jetsetters, but its beauty and charm make it worth the visit. For a more laid-back ambiance, the village of Santa Margherita Ligure offers just as much charm with some nice beaches that are perfect for a swim after lunch.