Colli Piacentini, and the Golden Shades of Malvasia – Filippo Magnani

September 10th, 2022, the day before the Val Tidone wine Festival, a group of journalists, wine writers and wine experts attended a press event “Emilia in Villa”, by “Emilia Wine Experience”, the organization which regroups different wine and food consortiums, and wine routes associations.

The press joined the tasting and explored the different styles of Malvasia and Gutturnio in the secular park of Villa Braghieri, Castel San Giovanni, which is in the province of Piacenza. It was a wonderfully conducted dinner that “blended” gastronomic masterpieces with a focus on the production of Malvasia which are age-worthy, white wines, that all have powerful aromas.

The vineyards in Emilia are extensively cultivated with both red and white grapes. The homeland of Malvasia is Colli Piacentini DOC, which refers to the gentle hills around Piacenza.  This is a very interesting place for wine production, because of the steep slopes of the hills, and the different compositions of soils such as red clay and limestone and it has a particularly suitable climate for the vines – long and warm summers and very cold and cloudy winters. Colli Piacentini DOC covers 3,600 hectares of hills in the westernmost part of Emilia-Romagna. It runs from the Appennine, on the border with Lombardy, through the main five valleys: Val Tidone, Val Luretta, Val Trebbia, Val Nure, and Val d’Arda.

The production covers a wide range of wine styles and grape varieties. Among the many native grapes cultivated there is no doubt that Malvasia Aromatica is the golden shade of those wines. As the name suggests, it is very aromatic, but the producers of the area (over 80) have been keen to develop different styles of Malvasia, from dry to sweet, to bubbly and skin-fermented.

The DOC Colli Piacentini appellation has been protected by the local consortium since 1986, and, every year, celebrates with unbelievable enthusiasm the so-called Val Tidone Wine Festival in the charming towns of the DOC area. The event joins art, culture, local food, wine and hospitality, to create and promote the connection between the greatness of the territory. Tidone Valley is a land of scenic and breathtaking views. The smooth hills of the valley lead to Ziano Piacentino, the largest vine-covered area in Italy; and a historical town rich with castles under the same name. It is blessed to have a strategic geographic position, midway between North and Central Italy. The adjacent towns are also embellished with beautiful buildings and fortresses, some of them still have ruins from Roman times. The entire area is favored with green forests and pristine nature, around the river Trebbia, which contributes to the moisture of the area even during drought periods.

Emilia Wine Experience

The “Emilia Wine Experience” arises from the need of the territory representatives to emerge, or rather, to promote and communicate, in a more effective way, the potential of Emilia. The project also creates and promotes the territorial brand “Emilia” and has managed to involve 20 municipalities, gathered around the three main Provinces along the fascinating 5 roads of wine and flavors of Emilia: Piacenza, Parma and Reggio Emilia, two Consortiums of Protection, and a local association; all united to enhance the strong link between territory, wine, and tourism. The “Emilia Wine Experience” is a model of local development that brings together all the many experiences, events and quality initiatives of the territory, it collects them in the same portal, and gives them easy access.

“Emilia is a land of food and wine masterpieces”.

http://www.emiliawineexperience.it

 

Tasting Notes

COLLI PIACENTINI MALVASIA DOC “SORRISO DI CIELO” 2020 – LA TOSA

This winery dates back in the nineties, being one of the first to focus on still and dry Malvasia, that age. No doubt, this is a winning project of La Tosa, as their Malvasia is one of the few that can be aged for decades, keeping its body and aromas. This wine brings memories of Sicily, as the aromatic bouquet recalls Sicilian Muscat. The colour is deep golden and, on the nose, a lot of orange blossoms and dried apricot. On the mouth it is medium-bodied, easy drinking with a green finish.

COLLI PIACENTINI MALVASIA DOC “BACIAMANO” 2020 – MOSSI 1558

One of the most historical wineries of the area, immersed into the vineyards. Their Malvasia is pretty unique, as it is aged in porcelain stoneware, where it is fermented and aged for 6 months. The color tends to be more golden, but with deep notes of citrus, exotic fruits and dried herbs. On the mouth, its alcohol is well-balanced by the lashing citrusy acidity and long dry back taste.

COLLI PIACENTINI MALVASIA DOC “BOCCADIROSA” 2020 – LURETTA

An enchanting place for winemaking: a castle on the hills of Piacenza, a timeless place that was kept untouched through the years, since 1000. The same walls of the Middle Ages actually host the winemaking area and aging cellars. Since 1988 the vineyards have grown organic for a wide production of wine. This Malvasia shows brilliant amber color, with nice notes of cedar wood, beeswax, and candied orange zest. Full-bodied, with an immediate cleanness, almost tannic and salty on the back taste.

COLLI PIACENTINI MALVASIA DOC “TASTO DI SETA” 2019 – CASTELLO DI LUZZANO

A family-run winery made of passion and bonds with Northern Italy, that has concentrated its efforts and resources on dry Malvasia, in order to produce one of the most elegant examples of this wine. The straw yellow color, the nose has intriguing notes of cantaloupe, orange blossoms and chalk. On the mouth, its silky taste (as its name evokes, silk is “seta in” Italian) is well-balanced and long finish.

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“Benvenuto Brunello 2022” Preview – Filippo Magnani

Tasting fresh, elegant, new vintage Brunello wines, a tempting invitation to explore the magnificent wine land of Montalcino…

From 11th to 21st November, the village of Montalcino under the Consorzio del Vino Brunello di Montalcino, hosted by “Benvenuto Brunello” which is dedicated to the new vintages of this famous wine. The 2022 edition gathered some influential wine writers, journalists, bloggers and traders from around the world to present the Rosso di Montalcino 2021, Brunello 2018 , and the Brunello Riserva 2017. 137 wineries and 300 ready-to-taste-labels read to be released on the market from January 2023.  For the first time, on 17th November, “Brunello Day” made its debut simultaneously in the cities of London, New York City, Los Angeles and Toronto. The last 3 days of the event in Montalcino were open to the public by ticket. A unique opportunity for wine lovers to enjoy themselves in the increasingly innovative and prestigious territory of Montalcino and furthermore to get a chance to meet the brilliant producers of this territory.

A unique territory for the pure expression of Sangiovese 

The production area of Brunello corresponds to the Historical Limits of the Municipality of Montalcino, a picturesque village, just 40 km south of Siena, which is surrounded by vineyards, olive groves and historical sites. The Montalcino district comprises 3,500 hectares of vineyards registered under the DOC and DOCG designations. The production area is in the shape of a square, around the town and it’s very interesting to go through the microclimate differences in such a small territory. It is a dry land that enclaves a multitude of combinations of microclimates and soils. In general terms, the grapes located in the cooler northern areas of the DOCG tend to ripen more slowly. These vineyard sites are located in higher-elevation hills (not over 600 metres) and are planted in gravelly Galestro soil. On the south side, the grapes are hosted in quite another environment. The soils are richer, like clay, the sunlight is more intense, sea breezes blow from the Tyrrhenian Sea, and the wines result more powerful. Furthermore, the presence in the South of Mount Amiata (1740m) has an important influence by shielding the vineyards from strong atmospheric phenomena and provide breezes that keep the climate dry and the vines’ healthy.

The Sangiovese Grosso – the fingerprint of Brunello 

Brunello di Montalcino is a 100% Sangiovese-based wine that needs long periods of aging before the quality peak.  Once reached, it represents a true champion of balance, complexity, and maturity. Sangiovese is the only grape allowed in the Brunello di Montalcino DOCG and Rosso DOC. It is a very sensitive native grape, one of the highest quality varieties that needs careful practicing, and impeccable attention to its production process, harvest and vinification.  It is a variety that shows off fragrant notes of cherry and plum, hints of spice and an extraordinary texture. The natural tannic structure and high acidity levels of the Sangiovese are the main factors of its longevity. It performs differently in each different site and changes depending on its environment. The terroir combined with the play of time has always given elegant wines with perfectly balanced, rich bouquets. Brunello di Montalcino never fails to be a surprise. It is an example of an impressive year by year quality persistence and every vintage looks at a different profile of the beauty of Sangiovese variety, revealing a different nuance of its character each time.

A successful wine story 

The road that leads Montalcino to be the phenomenon that it is today is a path that speaks of great difficulties, resilience, and a success that in the world of Italian wine has no equal. Many interpreters, local producers, important winemakers and wine families from other regions and even international investors, but who all produce Brunello with the same grape, under the same strict rules and with the same quality objectives. The shared path and consistency of nature at its best, is perhaps the greatest strength and energy of the ascent, and subsequent permanence of Brunello di Montalcino among the wines that we can define legendary. The echo of success, in the last 50 years is continually expanding and there is no oenophile that doesn’t proudly display Brunello wines on their precious wine shelf. Today, the popularity of Brunello di Montalcino continues on world markets, thanks to a sharply rising average price, a good hold on volumes, and further growth in strategic markets, already protagonists of a boom in demand over the previous two years. The results are noted by the Consorzio del Vino Brunello di Montalcino, in the release of data recorded by the new Price Observatory on sales over the first nine months of the year. According to the sample of wineries, accounting for 28% of designation sales, the growth trend in September registers + 21.5% in terms of value, with a leap in average prices of “Vintage” and “Riserva” products – now close to 27 Euros per bottle ex cellar (+ 14%, with peaks of over 24% in the USA) – well beyond the inflationary push. Also on the rise, surprisingly for a not very rich last vintage (2017), are the volumes, up by 6%. The projection over the 12 months of 2022, according to the Consortium, should bring a total value of Brunello sales close to 250 million Euros. Numbers for Rosso di Montalcino are also up, with rises in both value (+ 20%) and volume (+ 9%).

In Italy it is known by 2 out of 3 consumers, surpassing in notoriety even the nearby Tuscan Giants. This is the data collected by Wine Intelligence that analysed the strength and recognizability of the 46 main appellations made in Italy. Domestic demand proceeds very well, confirmed as strongly rising and now representing about one third of the entire market thanks to a growth in volumes of over 17%, with values at + 31%. Overall, in the first nine months of this year, nearly 7 million bottles of Brunello di Montalcino were sold between “Vintage”, “Vigna” (i.e., single-vineyard) and “Riserva” products, the latter being the protagonist of a very strong increase over the same period in 2021.

Montalcino, a dream wine travel destination

Montalcino was a very important stop of the Via Francigena, a road that ran from England to Rome and, therefore, it welcomed and hosted important men of power, nobles, politicians, popes… The great Wines of Montalcino were crafted to satisfy the illustrious visitors who were traveling to reach the Eternal City, and that’s why the hamlet has always displayed absolute quality winemaking for centuries.  Montalcino today is internationally affirmed as an authentic, high-end wine destination. Visiting Montalcino is not just about tasting.  It has to do with the history of its people, and it helps you to understand why wine is so integrated into the culture of its inhabitants, who from generation to generation continue to pass on their passion and know-how. The town welcomes many visitors and the care of its hospitality has become just as important as the attention to its wine. Ancient buildings and modern B&B, luxurious accommodation within the wine estates and impeccable hotels. The cellars are open to all visitors and the experiences to participate in are numerous. It is possible to choose the itinerary that best suits their own needs, and each chosen path knows how to leave its mark. The rolling hills of Montalcino are also the setting for two important sporting events, where professional, competitive, and amateur cyclists and walkers can take up the challenge or try their hand at routes of different intensities and difficulties: the Brunello Crossing (for the walkers) and L’Eroica (for the cyclists) for example.

#italianwine #italianwinelovers #winelovers #wine #brunello2022 #brunellodimontalcino #montalcinom #winetourism #sangiovese #benvenutobrunello #vineyards #tuscany #toscana #winery @brunellodimontalcino #winetasting

South African viticulturists predict a smaller 2023 harvest

South African viticulturists and producers are predicting a smaller 2023 wine grape crop following a “healthy, yet dry season.”

This is the second consecutive year the grape crop is expected to be lower than the previous year, after 2022’s challenging harvest due to the uprooting of vineyards causing a decline in the overall vineyard area.

“At this very early stage the net decrease in the estimate is mainly attributed to all our growing regions that have experienced a drier season, except for the Northern Cape which has had its own difficult environmental conditions during and after the harvest,” said Conrad Schutte, manager of Vinpro’s team of viticulturists who issue the crop estimates with the industry body SAWIS.

“Poor flowering and set in various areas, together with the uprooting of vineyards, also contributed to the decrease in our estimate for the 2023 harvest.”

In the Northern Cape, where unseasonably wet and rainy conditions are said to have characterized the season, vines budded on a minimal reserve status and from the beginning, fewer bunches were formed. Foliage also grew poorly and even stopped temporarily in some instances.

In the rest of the regions, flowering conditions were reportedly good to outstanding. Few diseases and pests occurred, but the general average rainfall was lower in most regions compared to the previous year, which will impact berry sizes, especially in the dryland regions, thus influencing the total grape production.

“The season looks promising, but a lot could change leading up to the harvest,” Schutte added.

The next crop estimate by viticulturists and producer cellars will be released in the third week of January 2023.

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The Liv-ex “Power 100” 2022 – All About Burgundy

The Liv-ex Power 100, produced in conjunction with The Drinks Business Magazine, their annual list of the most powerful brands in the fine wine market.

The Power 100 is a snapshot of the ever-changing landscape of the secondary market and this year’s list caught Burgundy at the very height of its latest upswing.

For the first time ever, no Bordeaux wines feature in the top 10. Not a single First Growth from either bank. This year they have been totally usurped by Burgundy and Champagne.

Rupert Millar, Liv-ex’s Managing Editor states:
“Already the direction of the market in 2022 suggests change is on the way. Just as we saw in 2019, Burgundy’s latest surge may be dizzying but could be swiftly stymied by a lack of supply and an increasing reluctance to pay such steep prices for handfuls of bottles. The higher it flies, the thinner the air, and the fewer buyers there are.”

Key findings:   https://www.liv-ex.com/.

#wineinvestment #winelovers #winecollectors #burgundy #bordeaux #wine #power100 #livex #champagne #finewine #finewinecollectors

US Joins EU in Nutritional Labelling for Alcohol

European legislators have moved to require ingredient and nutritional information on wine labels (vis QR code), US consumer groups have also fought to achieve the same objective. After 20 years the groups have one their fight.

Starting December 8, 2023, labels of alcohol sold in the EU will have to reveal nutritional and ingredient information directly, or through a QR code. Until now, wine producers with no interest in exporting to Europe have imagined themselves to be immune from this kind of legal requirement, but a recent court ruling shows that American consumers will soon see the same information on bottles on sale in the US.

As the Center for Science in the Public Interest – CSPI – reported “the Treasury Department’s Alcohol and Tobacco Tax and Trade Bureau (TTB) has agreed to issue proposed rules requiring standardized alcohol content, calorie, and allergen labeling on all beer, wine and distilled spirits products [and to] begin preliminary rulemaking on mandatory ingredient labelling.”

The US move has been a very long time coming and results from a legal action by consumer groups and the CSPI against the TTB for failing to act on a 2003 petition submitted by 69 organizations and individual citizens including four deans of schools of public health, and calling for alcoholic beverages to be treated in the same way as other beverages and food products.

Opponents of the move who hope that implementation of labeling legislation may still be delayed will be dismayed to learn that the House and Senate Appropriations Committee’s 2023 budget treats the issue as ‘critical’ and calls for urgent action.

#winenews #wine #alcohol #beer #spirits #winelabels #wineeducation #wineinmoderation #winetechnology #winetrends