Category: Wine Trends

Wine in Trentino Alto Adige, A Taste of the Dolomites – by Michele Shah [Part ll]

Trentino (the province of Trento) and Alto Adige (the more northerly province of Bolzano, also known as the South Tyrol or Südtirol, bordering Austria, unified to Italy in 1919, after World War I, share a range of fragrant white wines and German-accented syllables. Both Trentino and the Alto Adige produce notable amounts of the popular Pinot Grigio, Chardonnay, and Sauvignon, as well as Pinot Bianco, and Riesling.  While the more aromatic Müller-Thurgau, Moscato, Sylvaner and Gewürztraminer, which is said to take its name from Alto Adige village of Tramin, can be enticingly perfumed and unexpectedly age-worthy.

One main distinction between Trentino and Alto Adige is that production in Alto Adige comes mainly from small family-owned estates that sell their wines locally with limited exports to Germany and Austria. Trentino on the other hand counts on a large number of growers, and members of large cooperatives, such as Cavit and Mezzacorona. These popular wines have found their niche, both in Italy and abroad, among wine drinkers who look for reasonably good and affordable wines for daily enjoyment.

Alto Adige is divided by its waterways, the Adige River and the Isarco River, thus creating two valleys. The vineyards are dotted around the banks of the rivers rising from an altitude of 200 to 1,000 meters into the hills. Bolzano to Trento is an easy 60km and indications are well signposted with good restaurants, hotels and excellent wineries on the way.

Cooperatives in Trentino-Alto Adige, go as far back as the Hapsburg Empire and are quite common representing the lion’s share of production. Cooperative farming in Trentino-Alto Adige played a fundamental role, its success stems from the necessity to create an effective economic system for the region’s fragmented farming industry, including that of viticulture, the average grape grower owns little more than 1ha, and most vineyards rise up the mountainsides as spectacular steep terraced vineyards, some still using the ‘pergola’ system.

Cantina Terlano (www.kellerei-terlan.com), a cooperative founded in 1893, just above Bolzano at Terlano is one of the best expressions of ‘heroic vineyards’ in Alto Adige producing exquisite white wines, in particular its Pinot Blanc from the terraced Vorberg vineyards. Well worth the drive to visit the vineyards above Terlan.

Cantina Girlan (www.girlan.it) has built up a leading position as a Pinot Noir producer – with wines of great character and remarkable elegance. In the last few years, Cantina Girlan set itself still higher goals and conducted a search for a single site capable of producing an outstanding Pinot Noir combining an international standard of quality with the authenticity of the terroir. The choice finally made was a monopole site by the name of Ganger, home of the Pinot Noir Riserva Vigna Ganger.

Cantina Nals Margreid (www.kellerei.it)is a “star on Alto Adige’s wine scene. Their wines have received the highest accolades from prestigious wine publications, including Wine Enthusiast, Wine and Spirits, Wine Spectator and James Suckling. Their whites are particularly interesting, exhibiting an intense minerality and acidity.

Termeno or Tramin is home to Martin Foradori’s family estate, Hostätter, (www.hofstatter.com) one of Alto Adige’s historic estates established in 1907 especially to experience the zesty aromatic Gewurtztraminer of Tramin, his majestic single vineyard Pinot Noir Barthenau, Vinga S. Urbano is where Itlay’s best Pinot noir comes from 100-year-old vines of the Mazzon site, as well as home to local Lagrein.  Bolzano is one of Alto Adige’s top areas for red wines, including the light indigenous Schiava wines.  The surrounding chain of mountains creates a perfect microclimate characterized by warm summers protecting the vines, giving good ripeness.

As you reach Trentino, I suggest you visit the family-run Endrizzi estate (www.endrizzi.it). A beautiful old family house and estate at San Michele all’Adige producing some authentic indigenous and elegant varietal wines such as Pinot Grigio, Nosiola, Müller Thurgau in the whites and Teroldego Rotaliano, Lagrein, in the reds.  Top bottling includes their Masetto range. The estate has a well-stocked shop and a nice setting for a light snack.

Elisabetta Foradori’s (www.elisabettaforadori.com) a family-run certified biodynamic estate at Mezzolombardo, well worth a visit, produces indigenous wines from Teroldego, Pinot Grigio, Nosiola and Manzoni Bianc. Elisabetta is sought out for her Teroldego, characterized by its deep granite hue and soft tannins.  Her cellar with its hand-crafted amphorae which come all the way from an artisan in Spain is a must to see and a tasting with Elisabetta is a wonderful experience as she explains the importance of biodiversity in winemaking.

Trentino, which pioneered sparkling wine made by the classic method early in the century, has retained its leading position and these sparklers are now grouped under Trentodoc appellation. They are predominantly Chardonnay based, and the extensive amounts of Chardonnay in Trentino’s vineyards reflects the importance of this production. Today a fair amount of Pinot Noir is also used in Trentodoc production.  A visit to Ferrari, (www.cantineferrari.it) one of the oldest sparkling estates is a real eye-opener to premium Italian sparkling wines. If you have the time stop at the one starred Michelin Locanda Margon and then visit the family’s jewel which is Villa Margon.

South of Trento two distinctively different estates show up for the quality of their wines.  The first near Volano is home to Eugenio Rosi, a controversial, yet authentic production of the indigenous Marzemino wine, showing a fruity vibrant character, very enjoyable and versatile.  Slightly further south near Avis is Tenuta San Leonardo estate (www.sanleonardo.it), home to one of Italy’s premium age-worthy Bordeaux-style blends of extreme elegance and harmony. Top bottling Villa Gresti is a selection of 90% Merlot with 10% Carmenère.   This is another must, as the estate is comprised a large parkland and houses an interesting museum of farm machinery and tools, but above all the family Marchesi Guerrieri Gonzaga if in house are absolutely delightful hosts.

About Michèle Shah

Michèle Shah has championed and promoted Italian wines for more than 30 years. A noted marketer, writer, communicator and judge, she works with producers across Italy. She is passionate about bringing the quality and diversity of authentic Italian wine to an international audience: her “Speedtasting®” b2b tastings have helped hundreds of producers find new export markets. Her clients include the Consorzi of both famous and emerging Italian wine denominations. A great lover of Italian gastronomy and heritage, Michele also organises wine tours for businesses and enthusiasts. These allow her to share her infectious love for Italian culture, deep wine knowledge, and connections with many inspiring figures in Italian wine. 

Chianti Classico Collection 2023: producers who embody passion, and strive for excellence – Filippo Magnani

The Chianti Classico Collection 2023 came together this year, for its flagship event, “Anteprime Toscana.” The Collection plays an important role in spreading awareness and improving transparency of one of Italy’s most charming and multifaceted wine territories.

The “Collection” took place in the beautiful Leopolda Station in Florence. It was the 30th edition, hosting a record number of producers (206 Black Rooster Estates) who presented the latest vintages of their Chianti Classico, Riserva and Gran Selezione wines to both the press and industry professionals. A total of 750 wines were presented between Chianti Classico Annata, Riserva, Gran Selezione and barrel samples from the 2022 vintage. The event was opened to the public on Valentine’s Day also offering an immersive tasting experience of wines, olives, cheeses, tomatoes and balsamic vinegar. A dedicated tasting area was set up for the Olive Oil DOP Chianti Classico where 30 different oils were showcased.

The Chianti Classico territory is quite complex, and a series of seminars were presented by Alessandro Masnaghetti, better known as “The “Mapman” for his significant contribution to mapping the vineyards of the world’s most significant wine-producing areas, and author of the recently published Chianti Classico Atlas of its vineyards and Additional Geographical Units.

Chianti Classico’s Constant Innovation

The Geographical Units mentioned in the seminars mark a step towards more profound knowledge and a greater appreciation of the peculiarities of Chianti Classico. The goal is to highlight the specific microclimatic characteristics with an even greater focus on the underlying differences that exist within these areas. The 11 UGA (San Casciano, Greve, Montefioralle, Lamole, Panzano, Radda, Gaiole, Castelnuovo Berardenga, Vagliagli, Castellina, San Donato in Poggio) are today labeled singularly with the name of the specific village of origin.

Showing the name of the municipality or village on the label will spark both curiosity and recognition from the increasingly high numbers of consumers who would like to improve. their understanding of the micro territories of Black Rooster wines.

Chianti Classico, a region that is eager to develop and has a vision of hospitality

This region has been one of the most popular destinations for wine enthusiasts for centuries. Perched on a plateau at altitudes between 200 and 800 metres, it’s covered with forests of oak, chestnut, pine and cypress trees. Now held in the arms of its two historic capitals, Florence and Siena, Chianti Classico was first loved by the Etruscans, then the Romans. The territory still preserves evidence of many past cultures. The earliest documentation of the existence of a wine-producing district dates back to the 13th  century with the “Lega del Chianti”, formalized between Radda, Gaiole and Castellina and branded with the famous Black Rooster which, after many glorious years, became the official symbol of Chianti Classico wine in 2005. The rooster symbolizes the spirit of the Territory; strong, elegant, lively, and proud. Its crowing marking a new day.

With a high density of wineries, the region is a true oenological paradise full of castles and ancient abbeys where fine wines are matured, world-famous wineries alongside small and no less prestigious family-run estates, traditional cellars and architectural masterpieces. A setting in which hospitality and its experiences take on various forms with a multitude of activities. The producers here understand the importance of hospitality which brings great economic value, diversifying income, creates effective means of communicating values, and enhances the distribution of their wines. From curious wine enthusiasts to collectors, guests are drawn to the famous winemaking names of Chianti but also discover hidden gems of the highest quality. From private wine clubs and sommelier associations to restaurateurs, wine tourism in the Chianti Classico region embraces an increasingly varied public. Consequently, wineries work together with the tourism sector to create personalized and authentic wine and culinary trips.

As always it was a true pleasure, to once again, meet so many passionate producers who exemplify the culture and philosophy of Chianti Classico! 

Old World Wines Gaining Share Across US On-Premise

CGA by NIQ’s latest On-Premise Measurement Research explores the share of total wine, with a focus on domestic white and red wine categories across the US, to highlight the opportunities for suppliers as old-world wines continue to gain share.

Using insights from the latest 52-week period of CGA’s OPM data to 12/31/2022, it is apparent that domestic wines account for the largest share of total wine across the US On-Premise (66.4%), but opportunities emerging for suppliers and operators to capture changing consumer preferences as they explore and consume old-world origin varietals.

At a total US level, domestic wines still hold the largest share of the market, however, old-world wines have continued to gain share. While domestic share has largely been maintained (-0.8pp), recent share changes demonstrate that US consumers are increasingly opting for old-world wines, specifically of regions including Italy (+0.5pp), New Zealand (+0.3pp) and France (+0.2pp).

Within red, domestic wine continues to hold a significant proportion (72.8%) of the share of red wine, up 0.8pp vs YA – continuing to increase its importance in comparison to all other major origins. Within the category, international origin wines tracked are losing share, including Italy (-0.1pp), Argentina (-0.4pp) and Spain (-0.1pp).

Whereas, white domestic wine has lost share (-1.6pp) and holds 61% of total share of white wine. Consumers are increasing looking to old world regions for white varietals in the US On-Premise. Most notably, from Italy (+0.9pp) has seen the largest increase in share gain, followed by New Zealand (+0.5pp) and France (+0.3pp).

Andrew Hummel, Client Solutions Director for North America, states: “Category and varietal insights are so important to help shape effective strategies for the On-Premise. Consumer preferences are changing, and being armed with the knowledge and insight to adapt offerings will enable success in 2023. While domestic wines still hold the largest share of the market across the US, increasing competition and innovation is gaining traction with consumers. OPM data tracking over time gives a comprehensive view of how the channel is evolving and helps identify opportunities for growth.”

Here is the research link: https://cgastrategy.com/unlock-the-potential-of-opm/

 

 

Diageo appoints Debra Crew as its first female CEO

British multinational premium drinks giant Diageo has just appointed Debra Crew as CEO, one of few women to lead a FTSE 100 company.

Diageo announced that Sir Ivan Menezes would step down on June 30th after 10 years as chief executive and is promoting its current chief operating officer Debra Crew to chief executive officer effective 1 July 2023.

The company employs 28,000 people globally and sells over 200 brands in more than 180 markets. It is also the largest company, by net sales value, in scotch and Canadian whisky, vodka, gin, rum, liquors and tequila.

Only eight of the UK’s top 100 listed companies have a female chief executive, which include: Dame Alison Rose at NatWest, Amanda Blanc at Aviva, Dame Emma Walmsley at GSK, Jette Nygaard-Andersen at Entain, Liv Garfield at Severn Trent, Jennie Daly at Taylor Wimpey, Margherita Della Valle at Vodafone – who is interim chief executive – and Milena Mondini de Focatiis at Admiral.

Before being appointed chief operating officer in October 2022, Crew ran Diageo’s business in North America, its largest market. She joined the company in 2019 and previously headed the tobacco firm Reynolds American until it was acquired by BAT. Before that, she spent five years at PepsiCo and worked at Kraft Foods, Nestlé and Mars.

 

The Think Tank on Talent in Wine Tourism – Part I

The Think Tank on Talent in Wine Tourism took place March 23 and 24 2023, ahead of the 7th UNWTO World Conference on Wine Tourism, November 2023 in La Rioja, Spain.

The overall objective was to address the current situation of wine tourism training at the international level and to identify the specific training needs to respond to the demands of the sector in the coming years.

The Think Tank was Jointly organized by the Government of La Rioja and the Ministry of Industry, Commerce and Tourism of Spain, in collaboration with the World Tourism Organization.  The Think Tank’s 2-day event: the first day was a closed meeting with key relevant experts in the sector, as well as representatives from wine tourism territories from around the world; and the second day was a series of sessions open to the public.

Here is day two of the programme:

  • 7th UNWTO Global Conference on Wine Tourism presentation – Maria Soledad Gaido, Technical Coordinator, Tourism Market Intelligence and Competitiveness, UNWTO
  • Enorregion Strategic Project Presentation – María Jesús Miñana, General Director of Agriculture and Livestock, Government of La Rioja; Pilar Vargas, General Director of the University and Scientific Policy, Government of La Rioja; and Ramiro Gil, General Director of Tourism, Government of La Rioja
  • Introduction to Wine Tourism Training

Panel 1. Origin – Wine Tourism and Training Resources

Rainer Brusis, Director, Innovation Management

Marianna Sigala, Director, Centre for Tourism and Leisure Management (CTLM), University of South Australia (Australia)

Gergely Szonloki, professor of Market Research, Geisenheim
University / Member of the OIV/UNWTO Working Group (Germany)

Panel 2. Destination – Wine Tourism Prospects and Future Profesional Skills

Manuel Romero, Director, Dinamiza Asesores

Claudio Cilveti, President, Enoturismo Chile

Catherine Leparmentier, Managing Director, Great Wine Capitals
Global Network / Oenotourisme et Réseaux Internationaux,Chamber of Commerce And Industries (France)

Niklas Ridoff, CEO, WineTourism.com (Sweden)

Tamuna Kakhidze, Chief specialist, Department of Tourism
Product and Infrastructure Development, Georgian National
Tourism Administration (Georgina)

Panel 3. Action plan – Challenges of Wine Tourism Training

Eduardo Fonseca, Vice Chancellor for Research and Internationalization, Universidad de La Rioja

Eduardo de Diego, Director of Communication and Head of International Relations, Federación Española del Vino

Paula Sousa, Wine Tourism Consultant, Lisbon School of
Economics & Management (Portugal)

Mariette Du Toit-Helmbold, Chief Destineer, Destinate (South Africa)

Watch this space for Part 11 which will include new ideas and solutions the panel members have come up with, and published via report and/or research in the near future.