Collio Wine Region: a small yet rich wine treasure in northeast Italy – Filippo Magnani

Hidden in the Friuli-Venezia Giulia region, Collio is a gentle series of slopes where some of Italy’s best white wines are produced.  It is a small wine region within the province of Gorizia, near the Italian-Slovenia border. It was a great pleasure to be one of the lucky writers to participate in the press tour last November. The tour was organized by the Consorzio Collio DOC.  We had four days of intensive exploration and discovery, all dedicated to a protagonist of the Italian wine scene. I was thrilled and curious to dive into the small but rich world of this wine gem and my expectations were completely fulfilled.

A small wine territory with surprising complexity and richness

Collio is a radiant wine region where prestigious wines have been produced since ancient times. Vineyards and wineries are spread over rolling hills between 80 and 270 metres in height. For over 2000 years winemakers have had a special place for the production of a wide range of great wines in terms of style and grape variety. This ideal microclimate is generated by the presence of the Julian Alps to the north, which protects the valley by ensuring continuous ventilation from the “bora” that blows continuously over the vineyard. To the south, on the clearest days, you can observe the Adriatic Sea. The presence of the sea is fundamental for the health of the plants, the proximity to the Mediterranean Sea (30 km away) gives the area milder seasons, warmer air currents and a dry climate. These factors combined with the many variable soil compositions allow each corner of this DOC to express itself with its own character and charm in the wine. The so-called “Collio Goriziano” wine area is half-moon shaped territory bordered to the west by the river Isonzo and to the East by the river Judrio. It brings together the same DOC wines from 1500 hectares of vineyards positioned in eight different municipalities: Capriva, Cormòns, Dolegna del Collio, Farra d’Isonzo, Gorizia, Mossa, San Floriano del Collio and San Lorenzo Isontino.

The Collio valley is home to about 200 producers who, with vision and great dedication, have succeeded in tracing a well-defined common path which is able to maintain a strong link with traditions, and who are open to developments and innovations. For decades the famous native varieties and pillars of this wine area, such as Fiuliano, Ribolla Gialla, Malvasia Istriana and Picolit, have been accompanied by international varieties due to the great versatility of the land for the production of elegant white wines. In particular, the Pinot Grigio finds an absolutely suitable place for its maturation here, with its characteristic straw yellow colour, its ash hints, structure and length. To complete the wide range of white international grape varieties cultivated in the DOC we find the Chardonnay, Sauvignon, Muller Thurgau, Traminer Aromatico, Pinot Bianco and Riesling.

Despite the region of Collio being a well-known and renowned DOC for the production of a wide range of white wines, the surprising red wines also deserve to be mentioned. The trend is towards international grape varieties: Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot used predominantly for the most important vintages. The character of these wines very much reflects the territory in which we are: great drinkability, freshness, with an acidity that will allow these wines to express themselves at best in the battle with time.

“Ponca” Collio’s soil signature for the production of elegant wines

Taking a leap back 56 million years ago, the area of Collio was covered by sea, the land emerged after 20 million years. The hills of Collio hide the characteristics of the marine environment in their depths. It is precisely the soil, called Ponca or flynch, that is a protagonist in the great character and complexity of the wines of this territory. This soil is composed of layers of marl and sandstone of Eocene origin. It is the “heart of the hills” that yields the characteristics of salinity and minerality of the wines from the Collio DOC. The composition of “Ponca” also varies drastically in the vineyard’s locations, giving an incredible array of wines, depending on the type of vines planted. It is therefore the hand of man that must understand the land, shape it, and work it, to enhance the potential complexity and aging of the wines.

Four diverse subzones in the pursuit of excellence

The wine region of Collio regroups a mix of grape varieties, soils and types of wine made by growers with strong personalities. During our trip we had the chance to appreciate the peculiarities and the differences between those four main wine areas, spread between the eight different municipalities:

Capriva del Friuli

Capriva is an area totally covered by vineyards that vest the hills around the wine estates. This subzone, in the northern tip of the province of Gorizia, is among the most beautiful views of the Collio.

In the first morning of our trip, the Consorzio had organized the first tasting, covering the productions of different estates between Capriva del Friuli and Farra d’Isonzo. The producers presenting the wines were: Castello di Spessa, Russiz Superiore, Tenuta Villanova, Tenuta Borgo Conventi, Colmello di Grotta. All wines displayed intense and beautiful aromas in the nose. They also all had lively acidity, maintaining great balance and a fresh finish.

Cormons

In the central area of Collio, stands the town of Cormòns, surrounded by the hills that give life to the wine crus of Pradis, Plessiva, Brazzano and Zegla. There are wonderful wines produced here made from Pinot Grigio, Malvasia Istriana and Sauvignon Blanc, and the well-known Friulano. It is a lower-elevated area characterized by alluvial soils with a major presence of clay. During the afternoon of our first day, I had the pleasure to taste the wines of the following wineries: Tenuta Baroni del Mestri, Zorzon, Kurtin, Bolzicco, Carlo di Pradis, Bracco, Tenuta di Angoris. In general, they all expressed great texture with a good aromatic nose. They were vibrant and structured to the palate with a harmonious end.

Dolegna

The territory of Dolegna is the closest to the mountains. The vineyards are positioned at an elevation ranging between 50 and 90 metres. It’s quite a windy area. The area is also characterized by a cold and humid climate, particularly suitable for certain vines such as Sauvignon Blanc. We attended a wine seminar with a focus on Dolegna, on the second day, was very well organized and led by these estates: Tenuta Stella, Tenuta la Ponca, Fruscalzo, Pascolo, Casa delle Rose, Livon.  I found the wines well made, characterized by Intense flavours and aromaticity; dry, fragrant palate with good acidity; with rich and elegant aftertaste.

Oslavia

Oslavia is considered the homeland of the orange wines. This wine corner is the cradle of visionary winemakers who represent first class pioneers of the production of skin-macerated white wines. Ribolla Gialla is the signature native grape variety of Oslavia’s wine identity. During the afternoon of the second day, I was lucky enough to sit side by side with the great interpreters in the Collio wine scene and all of them were able to reveal their individualism: Dario Princic, Fiegl, Gravner, Il Carpino, La Castellada, Primosic, Radikon. I tasted a wide range of great wines, showing high intensity and complexity of aromas. I tasted well balanced wines with body and finesse, signs of great potential for aging.

San Floriano

From San Floriano you can see the entire Collio region. It is the highest subzone. The hamlets of San Floriano are the easternmost territories of the DOC and they receive the benefits of dry and milder winds from the Adriatic Sea. The microclimatic conditions allow slow ripening, and the wines gain characteristics that well communicate their aging potential. Here we had the final dinner of the trip with a great tasting of San Floriano’s wine representatives. The wine growers which presented their wines were: Korsic, Marcuzzi, Manià, Humar, Formentini, Gradis’ciutta. The wines in general were vibrant, with good fruit and crispy acidity. They had a common elegance and good persistence, all lovely long-lasting wines.

Collio, a wine destination beyond the wine

Collio is an extraordinary area, tucked away with wine-themed castles and hamlets like Ruttars, Spessa, GradisCiutta, Oslavia and picturesque villages like Dolegna del Collio, Capriva del Friuli, Cormons, Farra d’Isonzo and San Floriano del Collio, all bordering one another. A particular destination for wine connoisseurs and oenophiles who love to discover the secrets behind the scenes of some of northern Italy’s finest micro-wineries. The roads and knowledge of wine tourism seem to end on the imaginary line drawn by Venice, but this land preserves a bountiful cradle of Italian culture and Northern European subcultures due to the proximity with Austria and Slovenia. It’s a fascinating place.

Around the town of Gorizia, a city designated as European Capital of Cosmopolitan Culture for the year 2025 by the European Commission, there are wineries with distinctive souls. It brings together great visionary producers, family and independent productions, modern and traditional wineries, revolutionary winemakers, who have made this territory one of the richest and most precious nests of white wines in Italy. 

Along with the increasing success of the wine production, this strip of land has developed a great attitude towards reception and hospitality. The services related to hospitality are various and the experiences are many, you can choose to stay in a cosy B&B or in one of the charming country farms, or a hotel with luxury facilities. It is a perfect destination both for visitors that want to deep themselves in the authentic local culture, and also for those looking for a wild adventure.

Even the local Mittel European cuisine shows how the territory has been enriched by the different coexisting cultures. It is the meeting place of Hungarian and Austrian dishes with traditional Italian style. It is an extremely refined and elegant cuisine, which combines wild game with wines of incredible character and complexity.

To give a general overview of the territory and to better understand the wine region of Collio, the Consortium in collaboration with the Italian Sommelier Association, created “Enjoy Collio”. It is an event held in the autumn, addressed to international professionals and journalists and it is a unique opportunity to dig deeper into the immense and sometimes dispersive wine landscape of Friuli, tasting wines of exceptional craft but also combining experiences in authentic locations. The event brings together many facets of the territory, starting from the food and wine up to the hospitality, open air and sport activities.

Enjoy Collio aims to show the thriving potential of the Collio region. The road has been traced, and this represents the first great steps of a territory that is and will become more and more a great pride for the Italian wine and tourism scene.

#collio #consorziocollio #consorzio_collio #wine #winelovers #italianwine #italianwinelovers #colliowines #igersitalia #instawine #orangewine #redwine #whitewine #colliowinetourism #enjoycollio #Oslavia #travelling #winetourism

Mumm Millésimé 2015 – Virtual Tasting

Yesterday I participated in a virtual tasting with Cellar Master Laurent Fresnet of Maison Mumm to celebrate the release of Mumm Millésimé 2015. It was wonderful opportunity to see Laurent again and engage in the online conversation.  Unfortunately, I couldn’t participate in the tasting portion (at this time) my bottle was stuck at customs.

What I did learn – Mumm Millésimé 2015 is crafted exclusively from Pinot Noir grapes and were harvested from the best plots of the Montagne de Reims Grand Cru villages of Verzy, Ambonnay and Verzenay, and the Chardonnay grapes were harvested from plots in the Côte des Blancs Grand Cru villages of Cramant and Avize.

Mumm Millésimé 2015 blend

75% Pinot Noir

25% Chardonnay

[100% Grands Crus]

Mumm Millésimé 2015 underwent full malolactic fermentation which reveals supple, round character, delicate toasted aromas and notes of biscuit.

The dosage is 6 g/liter (brut).

This vintage was aged for five years in Maison Mumm’s cellars beneath the city of Reims.

Maison Mumm’s style reveals the essence of Pinot Noir – with its power and rich, elegant fruit, the black grape takes pride of place in the House’s classic blends, to which Chardonnay and Meunier grapes add their inimitable floral and fruity notes.

Tasting Notes:  watch this space for my tasting notes in the next few weeks.

#virtualtasting #winelover #wine #champagne #champagnelover #winetasting #Mumm #Mummexplores #MummChampagne #champagnetasting #champagnemoments #MummMillésimé2015

@GMMumm

Tasting Notes: Pellegrino Cavallina Grillo/Pinot Grigio 2020 and Centopassi “Giato” Nero d’Avola – Perricone – 2020

These are wines for contemplating – after tasting these two wines from Sicily they helped me focus on my New Year’s goals…..

Pellegrino Cavallina Grillo/Pinot Grigio 2020
This medium body wine has a surprisingly, pleasingly smooth texture, is a blend of Pinot Grigio and Grillo, is well-balanced, there are notes of green apples, pears, melons, and hints of light floral, a little vegetal on the palate with a soft finish.

90 points

Centopassi “Giato” Nero d’Avola – Perricone – 2020

This delicious “unoaked” Sicilian red is made from the native grapes of Nero d’Avola and Perricone, it’s fresh and lively on the palate with red berry fruits wrapped up in luscious acidity.

91 points

#WinesOfSicily #SiciliaDOC #wine #instawine #sicilianwine #winelover #winecountry #winetasting #winepairing #redwine #whitewine #italianwine #wineitaly #cavallina #ilfrappato @cantinepellegrino #siciliawine @siciliadoc_canada #newyearsgoals

Alto Adige – An Exciting Mosaic of Grapes, People, and Territories to Explore – Filippo Magnani

The Third Edition of Consorzio Alto Adige’s “Wine Summit” was about a magical territory between the Dolomites, its people and their great challenge of the mountain…


The Wine Summit is an extraordinary event that, through the masterful organization of “Consorzio Alto Adige Wines”, recants the stories and souls behind the bottles of wines from this magnificent land.

Alto Adige is a jubilation of diversity, and its “contrasts” are the main theme of the occasion. For the third consecutive year, the consortium succeeded in bringing enthusiasts and professionals closer to this wonderful and extreme territory nestled in the mountains. This year, a total of 80 producers presented around 260 wines. Even if it is a small portion compared to the entire wine production of the region, the “Consorzio Vini Alto Adige” was able to give, once again, a clear idea of the enormous potential of the Alto Adige territory.

Days spent in close contact with producers that keep up their precious traditions and combined them with innovations. A unique experience among old vintages, vertical tastings combined with culinary experiences inside ancient castles. A mix of stories and tales told directly from those who heroically, every day, take care of this absolutely incredible place.

Alto Adige – a wine territory wedged between glacial valleys

Alto Adige is one of the smallest wine-growing areas in Italy which, with its 5600 hectares (13.137 Acres), is one of the wildest and most fascinating wine-growing areas in the country.

It is the northernmost wine area of the boot. One of the main and historically coveted access gates by land to Italy located at the border with Austria, this territory is an extreme land, a cradle of cultures and certainly a precious testimony of the incredible biodiversity that characterizes the Italian regions.

The theme of ‘contrast’ at the Wine Summit Event 2021, perfectly sums up the soul of this territory. The hectares of vineyards are distributed in a Y-shaped territory at an altitude ranging from 200 metres (650 feet) above sea level up to a maximum of 1000 metres (3,300 feet). An infinite variety of morphologies, microclimates, and landscapes coexist in this area.

The great diversity of soil, climate, and the imperviousness of the vineyard’s location, with a vast range of elevations, make this Alto Adige a fascinating and continuous challenge between nature and the wine producers. The potentials are endless, and it is interesting to understand how each of them interprets the terroir.

The Alps act as a shield against the cold currents that come from Northern Europe; the region is then open to the south allowing the gentle Mediterranean currents to create a balanced microclimate. The air flows through the vineyards providing not only mild temperatures and substantial rain but also a dry climate. These conditions are particularly suited for the production of authentic wines, rich in character and unique in their peculiarities.

The climate ranges from alpine conditions, fresh and characterized by important thermal excursions, such as the Valle Isarco and the Val Venosta; to sun-kissed valleys, milder Mediterranean climates influenced by the presence of the Lakes, such as the Bolzano area, the Oltradige and the lower Atesina.

A platform for a wide range of grape varieties

Despite the small dimension of the wine growing area of the Alto Adige, the possibilities in the selection of the vine’s variety are endless. The biodiversity allows the cultivation of a unique range of indigenous and international grape varieties. Here, the attention to details is fundamental; there are about 150 different types of rock, the composition of the soil changes within a few metres, it is a rich land that requires meticulous attention.

The last decades have marked a change in the level of wine production. In the past, this territory was mainly linked to two native vines: Schiava and Lagrain (two red varieties), nowadays in Alto Adige about 20 different varieties are cultivated. The air of change has been well received by the “altoatesini” winemakers, who, with conviction and passion, have changed the way of conceiving wine as a finished product, maintaining a strong link with the past. The Schiava, is still the second most used grape variety but today the production is divided into 64% production of white wines and 36% of red wines. Tradition and innovation combined to illuminate a territory that is difficult to explain just with words. In 1971 the DOC mark was introduced and today more than 98% of the viticultural surface has this certification. Today this is a land of varieties such as Pinot Blanc, Sauvignon Blanc, Gewürztraminer, Pinot Grigio, Riesling, Sylvaner, Veltliner, Müller Thurgau, Kerner, Schiava, Pinot Noir and Lagrein. They are recognized for great white wines, but also for red and sparkling wines. Elegant production characterized by exuberant freshness and important acidity is the key factor for the longevity of the wines.

Seven distinct growing sub-regions in Alto Adige linked to wine grape varieties

  Alto Adige Valle dell’Isarco (Eisaktal): It is about 80km long, it is a valley entirely crossed by the river of the same name. Mountain wines, elegant and bold. A production focused on white wines. The vines permitted by the regulations are Sylvaner, Veltliner, Pinot Grigio, Muller Thurgau, Kerner, Gewurztraminer, and Riesling

–  Alto Adige Santa Maddalena: It is an area located north of Bolzano, it is a land dedicated to the Schiava, a historic native grape variety. The wines from the vineyards of the Villages of Santa Maddalena may be Labelled as “Classico – Klassisch”

–  Alto Adige Terlano: It is an area of white wines. The two main varieties are Pinot Grigio and Chardonnay, which by regulation must compose at least 50% of the blend

–  Alto Adige Meranese: Production area of Schiava, the regulation allows the addition of a maximum of 15% of complementary grapes. This sub-zone is located around the town of Merano.

– Alto Adige Val Venosta: This DOC is located to the north-east of the region, it allows the production of wines based on Pinot Blanc, Chardonnay, Pinot Grigio, Muller Thurgau, Riesling, Kerner, Sauvignon blanc, Gewurztraminer, Schiava, and Pinot Noir, with the obligation to indicate on the label the varieties used in the blend.

Alto Adige Colli di Bolzano: This DOC is dedicated to Schiava, the production area surrounds the DOC Santa Maddalena

–  Alto Adige Lake Kaltern (Lake Kaltern):   it is the largest natural lake in Alto Adige, and has a great influence on the wine products from this area. This breath-taking place is the home of Schiava. The wine produced in this area is labelled as “classico-klassisch” and the designation “Alto Adige” may be used.  The DOC includes the villages of: Caldaro, Appiano, Termeno, Cortaccia, Vadena, Egna, Montagna, Ora and Branzollo. High quality wines are sometimes marked with “Superiore”.

The heterogeneous features of the territory are combined with those of culture. Excellences coming from ancient traditions and the hard work of 5000 winegrowers. It is a territory united by the great love for the land, the wines produced come from private estates, micro wineries, and cooperatives. These cooperatives are aggregations of small producers who deliver their grapes each year. Even if these “cantine sociali” used to be linked to massive productions, it is important to underline that these big entities, in the last decades, have always aimed for great objectives, trying to speak for their land and reaching results of great quality. Alto Adige Doc is the smallest appellation in Italy, but probably one of the most complex. The necessity to transmit a better knowledge of this hidden territory, has oriented the Consortium towards a more detailed zonation and soil mapping to enhance the characteristics of each individual area. The officiality of the new zonation is still waiting for confirmation. However, it could be an important step for this wine district that would mark the path to follow in the future.

Exploring Alto Adige, beyond the borders of wine

Alto Adige is an extreme and adrenaline-filled territory. A land made fascinating by the great balance of its contrasts. Nature is the master of this place, a painting with breath-taking views: white peaks, imposing mountain walls of the Dolomites, a UNESCO World Heritage site that rises up to more than 3,000m, forests, lakes, gentle green valleys and a unique play of light and shadow that is difficult to describe in a just a few lines. Alto Adige offers a wide range of travel experiences, unique for their visitors, to explore the world of wine. Mixing the greatest treats from the cellars with cuisine, sports, wellness, nature. Activities that turn the wine vacation both of wine connoisseurs and wine enthusiasts, into an unforgettable souvenir. Wine here is not just an experience linked exclusively to luxury. The history and culture of Alto Adige are deeply linked to rural traditions, men or rather “heroes” who have dedicated their lives to their precious land. It is a perfect destination for those who love less frenetic rhythms. You can spend days in the open air, between charming paths or ski slopes; walk through the different Weinberg (German word used for the vineyards, literally means “wine mountain”) and stay in authentic accommodation or participate in culinary experiences and tastings in the wineries also known as “Schloss”, the German word for “castle”. The variety of nature in Alto Adige/South Tyrol is combined with that of culture. The towns were coloured by many men of different cultures, Italians, Germans, and Latins. In this place of the thousand shades to discover, there is something that is never missing: Harmony. In South Tyrol you will leave a small piece of your heart.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Continuation of the 2021 Port Wine Day celebrations…

I’m absolutely thrilled to be invited by the Instituto dos Vinhos do Douro e do Porto to participate in the tasting panel for the “Port Wine Day” celebrations!

This Friday, November 12th, at 7pm (Portugal) 2pm (Canada/US), watch live on the Port and Douro Wines Facebook page!

The global tasting panel will be tasting six different styles and vintages, which are listed below and will be presented by a representative of the brand, as follows:

Catarina Machado – @churchills_port | Churchill’s Dry White Aperitif

Lígia Marques – Sogrape | @kopke1638 20-Year-Old White

@sandemanporto 10-Year-Old Tawny

Emiliano Di Renzo – Symington Family Estates – @dows_port | Dow’s30-Year-Old Tawny

Manuel Sapage – @conceito_wines | Conceito 2016 Vintage

David Guimaraens – Fladgate Partnership | @taylorsportwine Fladgate 2015 LBV

The Host: Paulo Russell-Pinto – IVDP

 

#portwine #portwineday #dourowines #ivdp #vinhosdodouro #churchills #symington #sogrape #kopke #dows #taylors #sandemanporto #symingtonfamilyestates #dowsport #portlovers #instaport #winelovers #conceito #fladgate #taylorsport #portugal #port #porttasting