Benvenuto Brunello 2023, Presenting the Iconic Elixir of Tuscany – Filippo Magnani

On November 28th wine enthusiasts and professionals in nine key cities worldwide gathered to celebrate Brunello Day. London, New York, Dallas, Miami, Toronto, Vancouver, Zurich, Shanghai, and Tokyo all raised their glasses in honor of Brunello di Montalcino, the iconic elixir of Tuscany. This celebration is in fact the culmination of a 10-day event called Benvenuto Brunello, organized by the Brunello di Montalcino Consortium. Although Brunello Day is just a couple years old, this was Benvenuto Brunello’s 32nd edition and marked the release of the 2018 and 2019 vintages represented by 118 producers and 310 labels. These wines were evaluated by 90 Italian and international journalists and trade professionals, several of which were hand-picked by the Vinitaly International Academy, now supported by the Brunello Consortium.

During the inaugural weekend the 2023 vintage was presented and the 32nd Leccio d’Oro prize was awarded to five restaurants and wine retailers with an exceptional list of Montalcino wines: Ristorante Veranda at the Hotel Villa d’Este in Cernobbio, The Sistina restaurant in New York, The Il Quadrifoglio in Asti, The Berry Bros. & Rudd in London and the Osteria Il Bargello in Siena which also owns the Salotto del Vino, a wine bar and shop with nearly 100 Montalcino wines served by the glass.

A Story of Visionaries – The Rise of Brunello

After almost 50 years since its DOCG status, Brunello di Montalcino wines continue to grow in popularity and gain market share worldwide. To truly understand why, one must delve into its intriguing history. Montalcino was a very important stop of the Via Francigena, a road that ran from England to Rome and, therefore, it welcomed and hosted important men of power, nobles, politicians and popes. The great wines of Montalcino were crafted to satisfy the illustrious visitors who were traveling to reach the Eternal City, and that’s why the hamlet has displayed absolute quality winemaking for centuries.

The modern success of Brunello di Montalcino started in the late 19th century and is intertwined with the vision and passion of a few key figures who recognized the potential of the Sangiovese grape in a unique terroir. One such visionary was Ferruccio Biondi-Santi, a winemaker from the Montalcino region who experimented with the Sangiovese grape, selecting superior clones and implementing innovative winemaking techniques. He was one of the first to introduce the practice of aging Brunello di Montalcino in large oak casks for an extended period.

This patient aging process proved to be the key to unlocking the full potential of the Sangiovese grape. Over time, the wine developed a deep, complex character with earthy aromas, intense dark fruit flavors, and an impressive ability to age gracefully. Biondi-Santi’s wines gained recognition and set the standard for what Brunello di Montalcino would become.

As the reputation of Biondi-Santi’s Brunello spread, other winemakers in the Montalcino region started to adopt similar winemaking practices. In 1966, Brunello di Montalcino was first recognized as a Denominazione di Origine Controllata (DOC) and in 1980 it was granted the highest classification in Italian wine, Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita (DOCG). This prestigious recognition solidified Brunello di Montalcino’s status as one of Italy’s most exceptional and iconic wines.

The Sangiovese Grape – A Match Made in Montalcino

The secret behind the exceptional character of Brunello di Montalcino lies in its main grape variety – Sangiovese. This indigenous grape has been cultivated in Tuscany for centuries, and although it is Italy’s most widely planted black grape variety, many would agree that it finds its ultimate expression in the hilly vineyards of Montalcino.

The name “Sangiovese” is derived from the Latin words “sanguis Jovis” meaning “blood of Jove,” reflecting the grape’s deep red color. It is known by other names too such as Brunello and Sangiovese Grosso. The grape has a remarkable ability to express itself in a range of styles, from light and fruity to full-bodied and complex. Sangiovese is known for its distinctive aromas, lively acidity and tannic backbone. Closely associated with Sangiovese are fragrances of cherries – both fresh and dried – as well as ripe strawberries and plums that often intertwine with appealing herbal nuances like thyme, oregano, and sweet tobacco. This flavor profile captures beautifully the essence of the Tuscan terroir. Its vibrant and refreshing acidity preserves the wine’s balance, enhances its food pairing versatility and contributes to the wine’s aging potential, enabling it to develop complexity and maintain freshness over time.

Sangiovese wines often exhibit a pronounced tannic structure, delivering a firm and grippy texture that can be attributed to both the grape variety and the extended skin contact during fermentation. These tannins not only contribute to the wine’s structure but also bestow it with excellent aging potential. With time, the tannins soften, allowing the wine to evolve and develop greater complexity while retaining its inherent elegance. This is why the Brunello di Montalcino DOCG requires a minimum of 4 years aging, including 2 years in barrel and 4 months in bottle. The Riserva takes another year of aging which includes an additional 2 months in bottle.

The Terroir of Montalcino – A Sublime Expression of Complexity

The terroir of Montalcino is a tapestry of diverse microclimates, soils, and altitudes that contribute to the distinctive character of Brunello di Montalcino.
The vineyards of Montalcino are nestled on slopes and plateaus at varying elevations, ranging from 250 to 600 meters above sea level. This diverse topography results in different microclimates within the region, allowing winemakers the opportunity to express different facets of the Sangiovese grape.

The soils in Montalcino are rich and varied, giving Brunello di Montalcino its multifaceted personality. The northern region of Montalcino has soils dominated by limestone and shale, bringing finesse and elegance to the wines. In the central part, clay and marl prevail, imparting structure and depth. In the southern areas, volcanic soils contribute to wines with power and intensity.

The climate of Montalcino plays a crucial role in the ripening of the grapes. Summers are warm and dry, while winters are mild, providing the perfect balance of sun and rainfall. The significant diurnal temperature variation during the growing season helps to retain the grapes’ natural acidity, resulting in wines with vibrant freshness.

These factors, combined with the expertise and dedication of the winemakers, shape the flavor profile of Brunello di Montalcino. The wines are characterized by their remarkable complexity, intense aromas, lively acidity, and structured tannins that contribute to their exceptional aging potential.

Preserving Tradition, Embracing Innovation – The Future of Brunello di Montalcino

While rooted in centuries-old traditions, the producers of Brunello di Montalcino embrace innovation and strive for excellence in their winemaking practices. In recent years, there has been a greater emphasis on sustainable viticulture and organic farming methods. Many wineries in Montalcino have adopted practices that respect the environment, ensuring a healthy balance between vineyard management and the preservation of the unique terroir. Over half of them are now certified organic.

Modern winemaking techniques have also allowed winemakers to refine their craftsmanship further. Advances in technology have made it possible to control temperature during fermentation, ensuring optimal extraction of aromas and flavors from the grapes. Precision in oak aging has also become a focus, allowing winemakers to strike a perfect balance between the fruit purity and the subtle influence of oak.

Experiences Around Montalcino – A Perfect Blend of Culture, Gastronomy, Wine, and History

For visitors and wine enthusiasts, a journey to Montalcino offers much more than just a tasting experience. Here, you can immerse yourself in the rich cultural heritage, savor delicious culinary delights, explore the ancient history, and indulge in the stunning beauty of the Tuscan landscape.

For those with a passion for culture and history, a visit to the medieval fortress that overlooks Montalcino is a must. The fortress, known as the Rocca, offers panoramic views of the surrounding vineyards and the charming town below. Inside, the Museo Civico showcases archaeological finds and artifacts that tell the story of Montalcino’s past. The main street and square are lined with boutiques, restaurants and wine shops perfect for a day of shopping, eating and wine tasting.

Gastronomy connoisseurs will find themselves in heaven as they explore the local cuisine. The traditional dishes of Montalcino are a perfect pairing for Brunello di Montalcino, from hearty wild boar ragù to Pecorino cheese made from the milk of sheep that graze among the vines.
Many wineries in the area welcome visitors, offering guided tours of their vineyards and cellars. The winemakers take great pride in sharing their knowledge and passion, allowing visitors to gain a deeper understanding of the winemaking process and the philosophy behind their wines. And of course, the tastings of Brunello and Rosso di Montalcino are an absolute highlight, immersing visitors in the flavors, aromas, and history of these exceptional wines.

For those who are captivated by the natural beauty of the region, a drive through the rolling hills of Montalcino is an enchanting experience. The vine-laden landscapes, dotted with rustic farmhouses and charming villages, create an idyllic setting that begs to be explored. Hiking and biking are great ways to fully appreciate the picturesque scenery and immerse yourself in the soul of this incredible region. In fact there are two famous events that take place every year here: the Brunello Crossing for walkers and hikers and L’Eroica for cyclists. Among other scenic landscapes, both will take you through Val d’Orcia, a UNESCO World Heritage site that embodies the best of the Tuscan countryside.

In Conclusion

Brunello di Montalcino DOCG is not just a wine; it is an embodiment of the passion, dedication, and the magic of the Montalcino terroir. The Sangiovese grape nurtured in this exceptional climate and soil produces wines of unrivaled elegance, complexity, and longevity. A visit to Montalcino is an opportunity to experience the rich heritage, indulge in the gastronomic delights, immerse yourself in the mesmerizing landscapes, and uncover the secrets of Brunello di Montalcino. With every sip, you will taste the rich history, feel the love and respect for the land, and be transported to the heart of Tuscany’s winemaking excellence. Cheers to a truly unforgettable wine experience!

A Territorial Concordance – Pairing Sistina Pecorino Terre di Chieti + Summer Truffle Risotto

For tonight’s wine pairing dinner, I decided to pair Sistina Pecorino Terre di Chieti with Mushroom Risotto. This pairing is “A Taste of Authentic Italy” more specifically, Abruzzo, a territorial concordance: the pecorino grape varietal and summer truffle.

Citra Vini, Abruzzo – Italy’s Inception was in 1973 and since that time, its mission has been represented by some of the most important grape varieties including indigenous varieties, in the province of Chieti.

The Wine: Sistina Pecorino Terre di Chieti
This pecorino is aromatic and bright; soft and elegant at the same time being complex, with an array of nuances – evoking tropical splendour interwoven with delicate floral notes; being full-bodied and a robust structure, it concludes with a long lingering finish.

The Food Paring: Summer Truffle Risotto

Why this pairing works
Firstly, both the wine and truffle are from the Abruzzo region, thus a territorial concordance or harmony. Secondly, the wine is rich in aromas, but without excessive body which will destroy the delicate character of the truffles – great pairing !!

“Barolo Week” with Fontanafredda Wines

Some lunches are just a bit more elevated than others, and this one was one of them! A group of us celebrated “Barolo Week” last week with Roberto Bruno, COO of Fontanafredda Wines at One Restaurant, The Hazelton Hotel, Toronto.  Roberto came from Alba, Italy for the exquisite food and wine pairing lunch, organized by Galleon Wines.

A great selection of Fontanfredda Wines were paired with some exceptional cuisine prepared by Executive Chef Darby Piquette.

Roberto walked us through the history of the wine estate; and the technical notes, vinification, aging, and tasting notes of each wine.

The wine and food pairing included:

  • Amuse bouche, belini with caviar, tuna sashimi bites – Paired with Alta Langa Contessa Rose Brut 2017
  • Beet salad with whipped chevre, granola and baby spinach – Paired with Gavi di Gavi 2020 and Timorrasso 2022
  • Tatlietelle (housemade) with shaved truffle – Paired with Barolo Platinum label 2019
  • Beef tenderloin, garlic pomme puree sauteed spinach, au jus – Paired with Barolo Seralunga d’Alba 2018 and 2019
  • Montebello pasteurized cheese – Paired with Barolo Vigna La Rosa 2013

The best pairing for me was the last one.  First of all tasting notes for the Barolo, include:

Medium garnet in colour; developing nose of dark red fruit, strawberry, black pepper, licorice, some smokiness, and leather; closely woven tannins almost velvety; offers firm structure and elegance; medium length finish.  An excellent Barolo!

Excellent pairing with this mature cheese due to its smokiness and strong flavors.

Website link: https://www.fontanafredda.it/en/

 

CAMPANIA STORIES: AN UNFORGETTABLE EXPERIENCE DISCOVERING GREAT WINES AND DISTINCTIVE TERRITORIES – Filippo Magnani

The Campania region is well-known due to the stunning beauty of the Amalfi Coast, the authentic food of Naples, and the fascinating history of Pompeii. However, a deeper look beyond these treasures reveals a region rich in viticultural history, from the urban vineyards of Naples to the pristine nature and wild soul of Irpinia, one of the most fertile wine-growing regions in Italy.

The unique region of Irpinia was the backdrop to this year’s edition of Campania Stories.  This event must not be missed by international journalists and wine professionals each yearm who come to experience Campania’s newly released wines. Organized by the Miriade and Partners press agency and managed by Massimo Iannaccone, Diana Cataldo and Serena Valeriani, this is an integral part of their mission to promote the wines of Campania throughout the year. Their Campania stories can be followed at #campaniastories and #iobevocampano or by visiting their website www.campaniastories.com.

This year 90 wineries participated in Campania Stories 2023, which started with a wine tasting and gala dinner in the castle of Gesualdo, a charming town known as the home of several poets and the origin of the marble used to make the famed statues of the Royal Palace of Caserta. Gesualdo overlooks the valley of North Irpinia, with sweeping views that reach the dormant volcano Vulture in Basilicata and the plains of Puglia. In two days over 300 wines were sampled, both red and white, with a day of touring dedicated to visiting their producers. These visits were undoubtedly the most exciting part of the entire event.

Irpinia is home to Campania’s three DOCG’s, the internationally renowned Greco di Tufo, Fiano di Avellino and Taurasi with the key grape varieties being Greco and Fiano for the whites and Aglianico for the reds. The terroir here benefits from high-altitude hillsides and a diurnal shift in temperatures that helps ensure slow ripening and good levels of acidity in the grapes. Here you can find a mixture of volcanic, limestone, and clay soils. The vineyards are surrounded by forests and hazelnut orchards cultivated for generations.

The winemakers here let nature take control as much as possible. This is the case at the family winery Di Prisco, founded in 1994 just outside of Fontanarosa, renowned worldwide for its pink marble. The owner Michele Di Prisco works with just 15 hectares of vines. My favourite wine of the tour is the 2003 Taurasi; the 2003 vintage was a scorching and dry year that is now showing its best. The dark, deep, impenetrable colour was illuminated with orange reflections. On the nose, it showed jammy notes – blackberry jam – some tomato sauce notes and slightly bloody. On the mouth it was impressive with notes of molasses and dark fruit, earthy but with live grippy tannins.

Another important area showcased on these winery visits was the Sannio district, a hidden gem in Campania. This historical place has been cultivating the white grape Falanghina for over 2000 years. Roman buildings stand next to modern ones. The landscape is breathtaking, covered in vineyards, olive groves, steep slopes, and rivers, dominated by the imposing Taburno mountain. Formerly known as an area for bulk white wine production, Sannio producers along with the Consortium Sannio DOP have worked hard over the last decade to develop high-quality wines with complexity, many of which are suitable for aging.

A perfect example is Fattoria La Rivolta in Torrecuso. A century-old winery was founded from a family tradition of farming when the grandson and then pharmacist, Paolo Cotroneo, decided to plant vineyards in the late 90’s. With the help of his sisters Giovanna and Gabriella and their cousin Giancarlo they have built an estate that is now 60 hectares, with 30 hectares of vineyards located in Sannio and mainly on the hill of Taburno. The exposure and richness of soil is its defining characteristics. This is also the origin of their flagship wine, Falanghina Sannio DOP, Sottozona Taburno, a wine with green hues and a lot of personality. Nectarine, stone fruit flavours, a touch of floral notes, such as acacia on the nose, while in the mouth it shows a light salty taste and vibrant citrusy notes that dissipate with an almondy finish. This a clear example of the finest quality of local wines from Sannio.

I look forward to attending next year’s Campania Stories which has just been announced will be held in Sannio itself!

Radici del Sud 2023 – That’s a wrap – Part I

Radici del Sud 2023

I was part of the International Jury – Group 1, which was chaired by Luca Matarazzo (20italie.com), and includes Anais Cancino (Wineteller, Mexico), Liz Palmer (wine journalist, author and influencer, Canada), Torge Thies (TRCT MEDIEN GmbH, Germany), and Anthony Rose (Decanter, freelance wine journalist and author, UK).

Our group just finished two intense days of blind tasting sparkling, rose, white and red wines of southern Italy at the beautiful medieval castle  Sannicandro di Bari. I’m happy to report that there were a lot of exciting wines this year.

Radici Del Sud is a two-day multi-event dedicated to wines in southern Italy which includes the wine competition, and B2B meetings between buyers and international importers [10-11 June].

Part II to follow