AMARONE OPERA PRIMA – A Special Event to Discover the Territory and Wines of Valpolicella – Filippo Magnani

The body and intensity of Amarone is traditionally associated with winter months – wonderfully enjoyed in front of a warm, cozy fire.

In fact, the anteprime, dedicated to Amarone della Valpolicella, is always held in the early, frigid months of the year.

The 2022 Edition was unique in every aspect. It was held, for the first time, in the summer from 17th to 20th June. The objective of the Consortium of Valpolicella was to demonstrate and enhance the versatility of the wines of this area, aiming to reimagine Amarone from a ‘challenging’ wine that is mostly paired with game dishes to a more contemporary-styled-wine, balanced with less concentration and more fitness. On this concept, the first exclusive masterclass “Amarone 4wd, off the beaten track” was held June 18th at Palazzo Verità Poeta, which also opened the program for Amarone Opera Prima. The masterclass shed a spotlight on pairings with cuisines from four corners of the earth, accompanied by 4 different expressions of the territory of Valpolicella. The challenge was assisted by Nicola Portinari, a two Michelin-starred chef at La Peca in Lonigo.

In this extraordinary event of the previews of the 2017 vintage of Amarone, the Consortium of Valpolicella wanted to mix the masterful wine production from this area with the other flagships and absolute attractions of the Italian territory: history, art, culture, and music. On the night of the 18th, the 100 wine writers from 20 different countries, were invited to attend the Aida Opera by Verdi in the beautiful frame of the Roman Arena di Verona.  An amazing moment that everybody enjoyed, before the grand tasting of Anteprima Amarone the following day in the Palazzo della Grand Guardia (in the heart of Verona).

An Overview of an Iconic Wine Territory 

In the center of Northern Italy, located in an extraordinary and unique microclimate is the wine district of Valpolicella. Home of masterpieces including Amarone, Recioto, Ripasso, Valpolicella and Valpolicella Superiore. This wine region is a jewel of the Italian wine tradition. The area is characterized by a moderate continental climate. Many factors maintain this extraordinary pedoclimatic balance. The Northern border is occupied by the Monti Lessini plateau, probably the most important area from which the most valuable grapes of the DOC are harvested and shielded against cold currents from the Alps. Going South, the land assumes flatter features, a luminous valley that reaches the banks of the River Adige. To the West, the borders of the DOC touch the famous “neighboring” wine district of Bardolino, on the shores of the fascinating Lake Garda that has major influences on the entire climate of the area. It maintains mild winters and ensures excellent ventilation. To the East, the city of Verona raises the cultural and historical center of this bright area. The Valpolicella Classica, it is located in the northern area of the wine district and includes the towns of Marano, Fumane, Sant’Ambrogio, Negrar and San Pietro in Cariano.

On the beautiful rolling hills, we can find soils with poorer characteristics, with a major presence of limestone, clay and volcanic soils. These are the more preferred areas for the production of wines – they have great balance and complexity, there is also a longer growing season and the wines are more concentrated and have high acidity. To the East of the classic area the DOC enclave the territories of Valpantena, and Valpolicella DOC.

Valpolicella, the Eldorado of Wine Travelling

With its 240 km2 the Valpolicella has an ancient heritage, the name itself may refer to “the valley of the many wineries”. Viticulture and winemaking have been rooted here for centuries. A charming valley with stretches of vineyards framed by traditional marogne (dry stone walls). Historic territory, precious, where the interweaving of autochthonous varieties give life to incredible high-end wine production, the result of traditional techniques settled over time.  Wines are linked to a territory that every year attracts wine lovers, professionals, and collectors eager to know and deepen themselves into the different interpretations of Valpolicella, in particular its Amarone. The rolling hills are decorated by orchards and olive groves, small family-run wineries and famous wineries in the elegant Venetian Villas, now converted to wine resorts for an immersive experience. This place is a precious piece of Italian history.

Heading South-East, Verona rises the heart of the wine area. The hometown of Vinitaly, the yearly wine fair at the beginning of April where more than 4,000 producers gather from every region of Italy, trying to impress wine lovers from all over the world with tastings, seminars and talks. The “City of Love” and the scenario of the intense passion between Romeo and Juliet. The City of the Arena and its Opera, home of the famous Piazza delle Erbe, and undisputed flagship of Italian lives. To the East you can choose the enchanting Verona; the West side opens up to Lake Garda. A lake destination that can be chosen by those who want to visit the charming hamlets and small villages on the shores, alternating days of tastings with boat rides, long walks of different intensities, water sports and sensational fish meals. In order to help the guests in this extraordinary territory, a mobile app has been developed that has the task of directing the eno-curious towards the experience that is adduced more, being able to choose from a wide range of options.

Tastings Amarone della Valpolicella Docg 2017  

2017 showed lovely ripe fruit and good aromatic intensity. In general, I tasted great wines rich in structure, with persistent fruit, well-balanced with firm tannins. A sufficient level of acidity guarantees freshness to almost all wines. This shows the hard work of the producers during an uneasy season.

BERTANI – AMARONE DELLA VALPOLICELLA DOCG VALPANTENA 2017

Colour ranging from ruby core to light garnet rim. Intense flavour  of ripe plum with balsamic notes of mint. A hint of vanilla. Rich in structure, with persistent ripe fruit, well balanced with soft tannins. Fresh long finish. A great wine.

CA’ LA BIONDA – AMARONE DELLA VALPOLICELLA DOCG CLASSICO 2017 “RAVAZZOL”

Deep ruby colour. Rich bouquet of black cherry with hints of violet. Round, full body and warm. Good structure with quite delicate tannins and long length. Lovely wine.

CA’ RUGATE – AMARONE DELLA VALPOLICELLA DOCG 2017 “PUNTA 470”

Ruby core with narrow light rim. Great nose with ripe plum, spicy notes of licorice and rhubarb. Slight notes of leather. A full-body wine with good freshness. Present delicate tannins and quite a long aftertaste.  I like it.

GERARDO CESARI – AMARONE DELLA VALPOLICELLA DOCG CLASSICO 2017

The colour is medium ruby with a compact rim. Pronounced intensity of ripe red fruit mixed with notes of chocolate and tobacco. Medium body with ripe red fruit and freshness. Moderate coarse tannins. Quite a long finish.  I really appreciated it.

FALEZZE DI LUCA ANSELMI – AMARONE DELLA VALPOLICELLA DOCG 2017 “FALEZZE”

Bright with intense core and paler rim. The wine displays ripe red fruit and floral notes of violet with hearty overtones. Exuberant and full body in the palate, elegant fruit and velvety tannins. Long, fresh finish. A very good wine.

LA COLLINA DEI CILIEGI – AMARONE DELLA VALPOLICELLA DOCG 2017 “CILIEGIO”

Brillant with a deep ruby core. Pronounced bouquet of blackcherry, dried prune and fig. Overtones of coconut and the scent of tobacco. Good structure with firm, velvety tannins and long length. A wine with a personality.

MONTE ZOVO FAMIGLIA COTTINI – AMARONE DELLA VALPOLICELLA DOCG 2017 “MONTE ZOVO”

Brilliant, deep garnet colour with compact rim. Various and intense aromas of ripe plum, blackberry and raisin. Full body with discrete alcohol level and soft tannins. Long finish. A delicious wine.

SALVATERRA – AMARONE DELLA VALPOLICELLA DOCG CLASSICO 2017

Medium garnet core, paler on the rim. The nose shows the beautiful flavour of blueberries. Spicy with a hint of anise. The palate is elegant with overtones of black cherry and fig. Dry, medium plus body, silky tannins and a long finish. A great wine.

AZ AGRICOLA VIGNA ‘800 – AMARONE DELLA VALPOLICELLA DOCG CLASSICO RISERVA 2017 “VIRGO MORON”

Garnet red with a paler tinge. It displays an intense flavour of dark cherry and raspberry with light earthy overtones. Juicy and vibrant with a medium-bodied palate, firm tannins with a light smoky hint at the end. I have really appreciated this wine.

VIGNETI DI ETTORE – AMARONE DELLA VALPOLICELLA DOCG CLASSICO 2017

Deep ruby red with paler reflections. Pronounced intensity of ripe red fruit mixed with notes of chocolate and tobacco. Smooth and delicious palate with delicate tannins and quite a long aftertaste present.  A great wine.

#winelover #Italy #amarone #amaroneoperaprima #Valpolicella #Valpolicellawines #winetasting #amaronelovers #italianwine #italianwinelovers #winetrade #winetourism #winereviews

 

Abruzzo Wine Region is in an Exciting Phase of Transformation – Part ll

The Abruzzo wine region is emerging and being rediscovered not only from cultural, historic, and architectural perspectives, the regional also has remarkable wines and gastronomic traditions. It is interesting to note that Abruzzo is Italy’s fifth-largest wine-producing region.  Wine producers, and grape growers previously focused on quantity over quality.  On my recent trip to the region, I met a new generation of innovative winemakers and wine producers who are revitalizing wine production and it certainly shows that Abruzzo has a bright future!  Here are some of my highlights and experiences on wineries visited and wines tasted.

Emidio Pepe
At a Glance

The vineyards are located in the northern province of Teramo, in the town of Torano Nuovo – between the Adriatic coast and the Gran Sasso and Maiella mountains. The estate has 15 hectares of vineyards; with soils that are rich in clay and limestone. 

  • Emidio Pepe produces three wines: Trebbiano d’Abruzzo; Montepulciano d’Abruzzo, and Pecorino;
  • Is a benchmark-producer of Montepulciano and Trebbiano d’Abruzzo;
  • Is one of the pioneers of Biodynamic winemaking in Italy;
  • No oak used in the winemaking process – fermentation is in cement and then bottle-aged;
  • The grapes are grown biodynamically, hand-harvested, hand-destemmed, fermented with spontaneous yeast and aged 18-24 months in glass-lined cement tanks;
  • Red grapes are crushed by hand, and white grapes are crushed by foot;
  • These are some of the most age-worthy, legendary wines in Abruzzo and in Italy;
  • Emidio Pepe has created some amazingly complex age-worthy reds and whites in a region of mass-produced wines;
  • The family has been producing wines here since the end of the 19th Century, the winemaking process has remained philosophically unchanged since Emidio Pepe took over the estate in 1964;
  • Wine production has been in the hands of the fourth generation of the Pepe family, sisters Daniela and Sofia, since 1997 – more recently, the Chiara de Iulis Pepe has joined the estate as the fifth generation;
  • No additives or sulfites are used; and
  • All bottles are hand-decanted before entering the market.

We received a very warm welcome by Emidio Pepe, and his lovely granddaughter Chiara De lulis Pepe to the family estate.  Chiara showed us the cellars and vineyards.  Chiara explained that she follows the example of her grandfather and would like to continue to make “fine wines that are made to age and evoked this particular place…between the sea and the Gran Sasso range.”

I was served a traditional seven-course dinner which was paired wonderfully with nine wines. First up was Emidio Pepe Trebbiano d’Abruzzo 2019, 2009, and 2004. These vintage whites made from the Trebbiano variety were outstanding. Wonderful classics with brilliant harmony and long length.

I also tasted the 2013 Emidio Pepe Pecorino Colli Aprutini IGT – which was outstanding!

2013 Emidio Pepe Pecorino Colli Aprutini IGT
This as Pepe’s other white wine that you should “must try”!  Highly recommended. Intensely flavored with yellow plums, herbs, white flowers and minerals; full of personality; long length.
93/100

Followed by Emidio Pepe Montepulciano d’Abruzzo 2007, 2003, 2002, 2001, and 1983 vintages.  This was certainly fun and interesting to taste these older vintages – the 1983 and 2001 really stood out for me.

1983 Emidio Pepe Montepulciano d’Abruzzo
The 1983 vintage was fully mature and at its peak today. It exuberated a wonderful nose of red berries, forest floor, herbal notes, spice; while on the palate it was a deep, full-bodied, and complex wine with a wonderful balance and long length.  A wonderful wine!
94/100

The 2000 Emidio Pepe Montepulciano d’Abruzzo was missing.  This vintage is one of Emidio Pepe’s personal favorites – hence the missing vintage. According to his granddaughter, this vintage was “delicious with beautiful red cherry fruit, licorice and spice.”

2001 Emidio Pepe Montepulciano d’Abruzzo
This dark cherry red wine had wonderful rich aromas of ripe red cherries, herbs, and leather which flowed through to the palate ending with a long and lively finish. This wine has many more years of aging potential.
93/100

“I definitely consider myself extremely lucky to taste all these Emidio Pepe vintages all at one sitting….with the Emidio Pepe family – what a wonderful experience!” Liz Palmer

Website: https://www.emidiopepe.com/en/

Castorani
At at Glance

Castorani dates back to 1793, and is characterized by a stunning 18th-century villa. The organic winery is located between the Majella National Park and the Adriatic Coast, 30 km from the coast. The estate owns 75 acres of beautiful, lush countryside which include the vineyards, in the province of Pescara in Abruzzo.

I was sooooo thrilled to visit Castorani as I am an F1 Fanatic! Castorani was recently acquired by two partners: a former F1 driver, Jarno Trulli, and his manager, Lucio Cavuto.  These two partners have revived the winery, and both take care of the day-to-day activities including winemaking through to the promotion of the wines.

The estate’s principal grape varieties include: Malvasia, Cococciola, Pecorino, Passerina, and Montepulciano. Castorani is also experimenting with new varietals. This estate believes “Pursuit of excellence can only be satisfied through respect for traditional expertise.” Wine production is in a temperature-controlled underground cellar.

Lucio Cavuto gave us a tour of the property, the underground wine production facility, and Angelo Molisani, the winemaker. One of the former F1 cars was the office lobby ….. what a “sight to behold WOW !!! Angelo gave an overview of Castorani’s wine production, vineyards, harvest and other technical details which was followed by an amazing wine tasting experience with both Luco and Angelo.

Wines that stood out:

2015 Jarno Rosso Colline Pescaresi IG
A beautiful intense ruby red colour, intense spice aromas, licorice and red fruits, hints of vanilla, and chocolate; It is full-bodied and rich on the palate with elegant tannins; long finish – intense and persistent. A great wine!
91/100

2016 Amorino Casauria Montepulciano d’Abruzzo DOC
The colour shows a deep garnet red; concentrated aromas rich in cherry, black pepper, and chocolate; very structured palate, full-bodied and rich; elegant tannins with a long finish.
91/100

Website:  https://www.castorani.it/en/

Other wineries visited include:

Abbazia di Propezzano Website: http://www.destrasser.it/

Strappelli Website: https://cantinastrappelli.it/

Pasetti Winery Website: https://www.pasettivini.it/en/

Next Article in this edition is:
Abruzzo Wine Region is in an Exciting Phase of Transformation – Part lll  Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo for the Summer!

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Wine Review: 2019 Domaine Eleni et Edouard Vocoret Chablis “Les Pargues”

About last night…. 

During my meeting last night, I discover this stunning wine …

what an adventure in a glass!

2019 Domaine Eleni et Edouard Vocoret Chablis “Les Pargues”

Pale yellow colour, impressive nose of orange and lemon zest, the palate is lean and fresh, good ripeness of fruit with lovely mineral though out – develops steadily as it warmed up, long length. A stunning wine!

#chablis #frenchwine #meetings #eventplanning #winetasting #whitewine #wine #winelovers #winewednesday #toronto @hyssteakhouse #baystreet #powermeeting #womeninwine #womeninwinebusiness #hys #hyssteakhouse #winelist #winereview #TorontoLife #FinancialDistrict

94/100

Grand Tasting of Abruzzo at Palazzo D’Avalos, Vasto – Part l

I was thrilled to be invited by the Consorzio Tutela Vini d’Abruzzo to take part in the “Grand Tasting Vini d’Abruzzo 2022”.  This year, the event was held on June 8th at the historical Palazzo d’Avalos in the town of Vasto, Province of Chieti.

The Palazzo d’Avalos showcases some important examples of Abruzzese Renaissance architecture.  It not only has stunning views the Adriatic Sea, it is also home to the Museo Civico Archaeologica.  A long leisurely lunch with breathtaking views was held in the magnificent Neapolitan-style gardens.

For the Grand Tasting, there were 120 national/international journalists and sommeliers in attendance. We had the opportunity to taste over 300 labels from the Abruzzo region. Wines were organized and poured by members of the Italian Sommelier Association, ‘AIS’ / Associazione Italiana Sommelier. I’m happy to say that there were over 76 wineries who participated in the tasting this year. It was a wonderful opportunity to taste wines from the four production areas: Chieti, Pescara, Teramo and L’Aquila, which included DOCG, DOC and IGT: Abruzzo DOCGs, DOCs and IGTs: Abruzzo DOC, Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo DOC, Colline Teramane Montepulciano d’Abruzzo DOCG, Controguerra DOC, IGT Colli Aprutini, IGT Colli del Sangro, IGT Colline Frentane, IGT Colline Pescaresi, IGT Colline Teatine, IGT del Vastese / Histonium, IGT Terre Aquilane / Terre de L’Aquila, IGT Terre di Chieti, Montepulciano d’Abruzzo DOC, Ortona DOC, Terre Tollesi / Tullum DOCG, Trebbiano d’Abruzzo DOC, and Villamagna DOC.

Opening speeches were delivered by: Valentino Di Campli, President Consorzio Tutela Vini d’Abruzzo and Licia Fioravante Councilor for Tourism.

“We are honored to be able to host in Vasto, in the marvelous setting of Palazzo d’Avalos, over 120 specialized journalists who have come from all over the world to learn about our good wine. Thanks to the president Valentino Di Campli and the Consorzio Tutela Vini d’Abruzzo – concluded the councilor for tourism, Licia Fioravante – for having wanted to include us in the “Grand Tasting Vini d’Abruzzo 2022” and in the broader program of the Abruzzo Wine Experience” which aims to make known the extraordinary increase in the quality level of Abruzzo wine, in the wake of a path that links the good product of our land, culture and traditions. To the kind guests the warmest “Welcome to Vasto”, certain to offer a beautiful experience in this splendid part of Abruzzo ”

My tasting notes and further details will follow in Part ll.

#vinidabruzzo #abruzzowines #abruzzo #abruzzoitaly #abruzzowine #wine #winelover #vasto #travelling #winetravel #winetourism #womeninwine #wineexperience #winelovers #winetravels #winetasting #wineinfluencer #wineadventures #traveldiary #traveling #italianwines #vin #palazzodavalos #abruzzowines #vinidabruzzo #abruzzolovers #abruzzowinelovers #abruzzo #regioneabruzzo #enoturismo #winelover #winelovers #abruzzodocpecorino
#montepulcianodabruzzo #trebbianodabruzzo #abruzzodoc #cerasuolodabruzzo

Casa Grazia, a Sicilian Winery by Lake Biviere, that is fully immersed in biodiversity

Prior to Sicily en Primeur 2022, we visited a number of wineries. One winery that stood out was Casa Grazia. Maria Grazia Di Francesco, CEO of Casa Grazia opened to the doors of her new cellar and welcomed us to the magnificent rural landscape of Lake Biviere Oriented Reserve. Maria is truly an advocate for women in wine – I was thrilled to meet her and her daughter. The Casa Grazia Winery is located in Gela, Southern Sicily. The family has been grape producers since the 1980’s and starting from 2005 they bottled their first wine. More recently, in 2020 they achieved organic certification.

Casa Grazia covers an area of ​​about fifty hectares, almost completely planted with vineyards, is 120 meters above sea level and a few steps from the sea. The vineyards are influenced by Lake Biviere, a natural saltwater reservoir rich in biodiversity. In this area the mild winds and sea breeze meet the warm and dry air currents of the Sicilian hinterland, creating a unique microclimate which is favorable for the cultivation of both native and international grapes: Frappato, Nero D’Avola, Moscato and Grillo along with Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon all on limestone-sandy soil.

The estate has eight labels:
Two white wines: Zahara and Adorè;
Five red wines: Laetitya, Victoria 1607, Gradiva, Emiryam and Vi Veri, and
One Sparkling wine: (rosé) Euphorya.

After the tour we had a technical tasting of seven wines:

2020 ‘Euphorya’ Spumante Rose; 2021 Zahara; 2021 Adore; 2021 Laetitya; 2020 Victorya 1607; 2019 Gradiva and Emiryam.

All the wines have great balance, wonderful character, and elegance. My favorite wine was Victorya 1607.  I found out after the tasting that this wine was named as a tribute to Vittoria Colonna Enriquez, Countess Consort and regent of Modica , who in 1607 gave 75 settlers two hectares of land, on condition that they cultivate one vineyard. The vineyards also fall perfectly in the D.O.C.G. of the Cerasuolo of Vittoria, the only Sicilian D.O.C.G. The 1919 vintage of Cerasuolo di Vittoria “Victorya 1607” received a Gold Medal with 96/100 from “Decanter World Wine Awards 2021.” It was such an honor to have tasted this wine knowing the backstory.

It was wonderful to meet Maria Grazia Di Francesco, like her wines, she also has wonderful style and elegance.  Maria presented all the women at our tasting a beautiful bouquet of flowers – what a lovely surprise and memorable experience.

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