Chianti Classico Collection 2023: producers who embody passion, and strive for excellence – Filippo Magnani

The Chianti Classico Collection 2023 came together this year, for its flagship event, “Anteprime Toscana.” The Collection plays an important role in spreading awareness and improving transparency of one of Italy’s most charming and multifaceted wine territories.

The “Collection” took place in the beautiful Leopolda Station in Florence. It was the 30th edition, hosting a record number of producers (206 Black Rooster Estates) who presented the latest vintages of their Chianti Classico, Riserva and Gran Selezione wines to both the press and industry professionals. A total of 750 wines were presented between Chianti Classico Annata, Riserva, Gran Selezione and barrel samples from the 2022 vintage. The event was opened to the public on Valentine’s Day also offering an immersive tasting experience of wines, olives, cheeses, tomatoes and balsamic vinegar. A dedicated tasting area was set up for the Olive Oil DOP Chianti Classico where 30 different oils were showcased.

The Chianti Classico territory is quite complex, and a series of seminars were presented by Alessandro Masnaghetti, better known as “The “Mapman” for his significant contribution to mapping the vineyards of the world’s most significant wine-producing areas, and author of the recently published Chianti Classico Atlas of its vineyards and Additional Geographical Units.

Chianti Classico’s Constant Innovation

The Geographical Units mentioned in the seminars mark a step towards more profound knowledge and a greater appreciation of the peculiarities of Chianti Classico. The goal is to highlight the specific microclimatic characteristics with an even greater focus on the underlying differences that exist within these areas. The 11 UGA (San Casciano, Greve, Montefioralle, Lamole, Panzano, Radda, Gaiole, Castelnuovo Berardenga, Vagliagli, Castellina, San Donato in Poggio) are today labeled singularly with the name of the specific village of origin.

Showing the name of the municipality or village on the label will spark both curiosity and recognition from the increasingly high numbers of consumers who would like to improve. their understanding of the micro territories of Black Rooster wines.

Chianti Classico, a region that is eager to develop and has a vision of hospitality

This region has been one of the most popular destinations for wine enthusiasts for centuries. Perched on a plateau at altitudes between 200 and 800 metres, it’s covered with forests of oak, chestnut, pine and cypress trees. Now held in the arms of its two historic capitals, Florence and Siena, Chianti Classico was first loved by the Etruscans, then the Romans. The territory still preserves evidence of many past cultures. The earliest documentation of the existence of a wine-producing district dates back to the 13th  century with the “Lega del Chianti”, formalized between Radda, Gaiole and Castellina and branded with the famous Black Rooster which, after many glorious years, became the official symbol of Chianti Classico wine in 2005. The rooster symbolizes the spirit of the Territory; strong, elegant, lively, and proud. Its crowing marking a new day.

With a high density of wineries, the region is a true oenological paradise full of castles and ancient abbeys where fine wines are matured, world-famous wineries alongside small and no less prestigious family-run estates, traditional cellars and architectural masterpieces. A setting in which hospitality and its experiences take on various forms with a multitude of activities. The producers here understand the importance of hospitality which brings great economic value, diversifying income, creates effective means of communicating values, and enhances the distribution of their wines. From curious wine enthusiasts to collectors, guests are drawn to the famous winemaking names of Chianti but also discover hidden gems of the highest quality. From private wine clubs and sommelier associations to restaurateurs, wine tourism in the Chianti Classico region embraces an increasingly varied public. Consequently, wineries work together with the tourism sector to create personalized and authentic wine and culinary trips.

As always it was a true pleasure, to once again, meet so many passionate producers who exemplify the culture and philosophy of Chianti Classico! 

Old World Wines Gaining Share Across US On-Premise

CGA by NIQ’s latest On-Premise Measurement Research explores the share of total wine, with a focus on domestic white and red wine categories across the US, to highlight the opportunities for suppliers as old-world wines continue to gain share.

Using insights from the latest 52-week period of CGA’s OPM data to 12/31/2022, it is apparent that domestic wines account for the largest share of total wine across the US On-Premise (66.4%), but opportunities emerging for suppliers and operators to capture changing consumer preferences as they explore and consume old-world origin varietals.

At a total US level, domestic wines still hold the largest share of the market, however, old-world wines have continued to gain share. While domestic share has largely been maintained (-0.8pp), recent share changes demonstrate that US consumers are increasingly opting for old-world wines, specifically of regions including Italy (+0.5pp), New Zealand (+0.3pp) and France (+0.2pp).

Within red, domestic wine continues to hold a significant proportion (72.8%) of the share of red wine, up 0.8pp vs YA – continuing to increase its importance in comparison to all other major origins. Within the category, international origin wines tracked are losing share, including Italy (-0.1pp), Argentina (-0.4pp) and Spain (-0.1pp).

Whereas, white domestic wine has lost share (-1.6pp) and holds 61% of total share of white wine. Consumers are increasing looking to old world regions for white varietals in the US On-Premise. Most notably, from Italy (+0.9pp) has seen the largest increase in share gain, followed by New Zealand (+0.5pp) and France (+0.3pp).

Andrew Hummel, Client Solutions Director for North America, states: “Category and varietal insights are so important to help shape effective strategies for the On-Premise. Consumer preferences are changing, and being armed with the knowledge and insight to adapt offerings will enable success in 2023. While domestic wines still hold the largest share of the market across the US, increasing competition and innovation is gaining traction with consumers. OPM data tracking over time gives a comprehensive view of how the channel is evolving and helps identify opportunities for growth.”

Here is the research link: https://cgastrategy.com/unlock-the-potential-of-opm/

 

 

The Think Tank on Talent in Wine Tourism – Part I

The Think Tank on Talent in Wine Tourism took place March 23 and 24 2023, ahead of the 7th UNWTO World Conference on Wine Tourism, November 2023 in La Rioja, Spain.

The overall objective was to address the current situation of wine tourism training at the international level and to identify the specific training needs to respond to the demands of the sector in the coming years.

The Think Tank was Jointly organized by the Government of La Rioja and the Ministry of Industry, Commerce and Tourism of Spain, in collaboration with the World Tourism Organization.  The Think Tank’s 2-day event: the first day was a closed meeting with key relevant experts in the sector, as well as representatives from wine tourism territories from around the world; and the second day was a series of sessions open to the public.

Here is day two of the programme:

  • 7th UNWTO Global Conference on Wine Tourism presentation – Maria Soledad Gaido, Technical Coordinator, Tourism Market Intelligence and Competitiveness, UNWTO
  • Enorregion Strategic Project Presentation – María Jesús Miñana, General Director of Agriculture and Livestock, Government of La Rioja; Pilar Vargas, General Director of the University and Scientific Policy, Government of La Rioja; and Ramiro Gil, General Director of Tourism, Government of La Rioja
  • Introduction to Wine Tourism Training

Panel 1. Origin – Wine Tourism and Training Resources

Rainer Brusis, Director, Innovation Management

Marianna Sigala, Director, Centre for Tourism and Leisure Management (CTLM), University of South Australia (Australia)

Gergely Szonloki, professor of Market Research, Geisenheim
University / Member of the OIV/UNWTO Working Group (Germany)

Panel 2. Destination – Wine Tourism Prospects and Future Profesional Skills

Manuel Romero, Director, Dinamiza Asesores

Claudio Cilveti, President, Enoturismo Chile

Catherine Leparmentier, Managing Director, Great Wine Capitals
Global Network / Oenotourisme et Réseaux Internationaux,Chamber of Commerce And Industries (France)

Niklas Ridoff, CEO, WineTourism.com (Sweden)

Tamuna Kakhidze, Chief specialist, Department of Tourism
Product and Infrastructure Development, Georgian National
Tourism Administration (Georgina)

Panel 3. Action plan – Challenges of Wine Tourism Training

Eduardo Fonseca, Vice Chancellor for Research and Internationalization, Universidad de La Rioja

Eduardo de Diego, Director of Communication and Head of International Relations, Federación Española del Vino

Paula Sousa, Wine Tourism Consultant, Lisbon School of
Economics & Management (Portugal)

Mariette Du Toit-Helmbold, Chief Destineer, Destinate (South Africa)

Watch this space for Part 11 which will include new ideas and solutions the panel members have come up with, and published via report and/or research in the near future.

New Index “WB Stock Index (WBIX)” Tracks Performance of Public Wine Companies

A new tool rooted in publicly traded wine companies and offering insights into the health of the wine sector has launched on winebusiness.com.

The WB Stock Index (WBIX) is a composite metric representing a portfolio of 13 publicly traded wine companies, weighted by each company’s annual wine revenue. The index reflects the daily percentage change in stock price at the end of the previous business day according to the significance of each producer in the marketplace.

The baseline for the index is Jan. 1, 2020, a time of strong performance by other indices and well before the onset of pandemic disruptions. The index stood at 119.02 as of March 1, indicating that publicly traded vintners have seen fortunes strengthen during the pandemic. The market’s confidence in the sector as a whole remains high. The index is intended to provide a snapshot in time and help benchmark a company’s performance against its peers. Performance can vary depending on the interval chosen, meaning a comparison across several intervals can be helpful.

Some of the strongest performers have been the luxury wine companies LVMH and Pernod Ricard, which have both performed well as aspirational and discretionary spending remained strong over the past year. LVMH’s share price has increased 28% over the past year to $170.45 while Pernod Ricard’s increased 3% to $42.22. The gains continued in the latest three months, with LVMH up 14% and Pernod Ricard up 7%, underscoring the long-term momentum underpinning each company.

The least fortunate company among those tracked by the index has been Vintage Wine Estates, which has seen its share price fall 83% versus a year ago to $1.39, with much of the slide registered in the past three months after the company restated earnings for the first quarter of fiscal 2023, released preliminary numbers for the second quarter that projected lower than expected revenue and gross margins for the year, and withdrew guidance on expectations for the remainder of the fiscal year, which ends June 30. The company also made a change at CEO with founding partner Pat Roney moving to the role of executive chairman and Director Jon Moramarco assuming the role of interim CEO. Moramarco is also the editor of the Gomberg Fredrikson Report and founder of bw166. On March 10, the company announced it had sold a 42-acre vineyard in Napa Valley for $11 million to reduce its overall debt. Following the sale, Vintage reported it owns approximately 1,600 acres of vineyards and leases an additional 800 acres.

Vintage is significant enough to influence the index but not sway it. Two of the largest components are instead LVMH and domestic vintner Constellation Brands, which has increased 2% over the past year but fallen 11% in the latest three months as its most recent earnings report underwhelmed the investment community. This is in line with the challenges other public companies have seen.

While a value decline can indicate a lack of confidence by the markets, it also creates a buying opportunity for long-term investors. The Duckhorn Portfolio, for example, has underperformed the index with a 19% drop in its share price over the past year. Currently trading in the range of $14.99, its shares have ranged between $12.64 and $22.29 over the past 52 weeks. Despite a lower price, several analysts have maintained a buy rating on the stock, an expectation that its share price will increase and reward investors. Bank of America analysts are among them, while Barclays upgraded its rating on the stock because of its latest earnings report.

This is in contrast with response to shifts in Vintage’s stock price, where sentiment has shifted in favor of “sell” from a uniform “buy” rating a year ago. Canaccord Genuity Group is among the bears, noting that it had more questions than answers about the company’s financials and future.

When it comes to public perception, however, the market is largely in favor of the wine sector. WBIX has outperformed the S&P 500, rising nearly 4% over the past year as the S&P 500 fell nearly 7%. The latest three months have seen it increase 2%, or twice the growth posted by the S&P 500.

Link to Index:  https://www.winebusiness.com/finance/wbix

Source:  Wine Business

 

AMARONE OPERA PRIMA 2023, an extraordinary event that reveals the special territory and wines of Valpolicella

This year Amarone Opera Prima took place on February 4th and 5th.  It was magnificently organized by the Valpolicella Wine Consortium at Gran Guardia Palace, which is in the heart of Verona. The President of the consortium, Christian Marchesini, opened the event with a presentation of Amarone sales in Italy and abroad based on data obtained by the Nomisma Wine Monitor. Interestingly, the value of Amarone has increased both in Italy and abroad, but the volume of sales went slightly down in 2022 following an exceptional year in 2021. However, the United States increased its import of Amarone by 24% making it now the biggest importer of the king of Valpolicella worldwide. Giambattista Tornielli, an associate professor of General Arboriculture and Arboreal Crops at the University of Verona, gave a special preview of the 2018 vintage which he said expresses all the typical characteristics of Amarone and the Valpolicella territory. Then several distinguished professors and high-ranking officials were part of a special panel that discussed Amarone’s candidacy to become a UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage. A total of 64 wineries participated in the Amarone Opera Prima and each evening offered tastings open to the public.

The Valpolicella Wine Region
Picturesque rolling hills, limestone, clay, and volcanic soils

The Valpolicella wine region is endowed not only with beautiful landscapes of rolling hills nestled against the Dolomite mountains and Lake Garda, but also holds one of Italy’s richest traditions in winemaking. The region is shielded to the north by the Monti Lessini plateau, which protects against the cold currents from the Alps. The region also benefits from mild winters and good ventilation due to Lake Garda. There is also a longer growing season, which helps produce wines with good concentration and high acidity. For centuries these ideal conditions have attracted winemakers who developed the traditional method of ‘appassimento’, or drying of grapes, to produce a unique style of wine famously known as “Amarone” which has become the flagship wine of the region. The classification of wines in the Valpolicella region can seem complex at first because there are both wine styles and wine territories with similar names. The region produces four traditional wines: Amarone della Valpolicella DOCG, Valpolicella DOC, Valpolicella Ripasso DOC and Recioto della Valpolicella DOCG – these are classified according to how the wine is made. All four of these wines come from three distinct territories within the Valpolicella region: Valpolicella DOC, Valpolicella DOCClassico and Valpolicella DOC Valpatena.

Valpolicella is an ideal destination for wine enthusiasts and connoisseurs

The long-standing tradition of Amarone and special grape drying techniques used are a fundamental part of the region’s identity, which the Valpolicella community is trying to protect with its candidacy for UNESCO Intangible Heritage. It is meant to reflect the social, political and economic heritage of the area and how it will evolve in the future. As explained by the Valpolicella Consortium, the UNESCO recognition is not needed for the success of Amarone, which already brings in over 600 million euros in revenue, but rather as a means to safeguard the tradition for future generations. Preparation of the dossier has also worked to unify and strengthen the Valpolicella community while respecting producers’ inclination towards tradition or innovation.

For those who wish to experience this heritage first-hand, the region offers an abundance of natural beauty and authentic wine experiences. Less than half an hour north of Verona the gentle plain of the Adige River Valley gives way to the rolling hills of Valpolicella, a patchwork of vineyards, villages, farmhouses, and renaissance villas many of which have been converted into family-run wineries and restaurants with accommodation. You can enjoy a variety of experiences, from intimate farmhouse tastings to magnificent Venetian villas complete with wine resort and spa.

I tasted some excellent wines at the 2023 Amarone Opera Prima. Here is a selection of my favourite wines and also make fantastic wineries to visit with memorable tasting experiences with a variety of lodging options.

LA COLLINA DEI CILIEGI – www.lacollinadeiciliegi.it

The charming Collina dei Ciliegi is nestled in the hills of the Valpantena territory. It was the dream of winemaker Massimo Gianolli who got his start in 2005 with a small production of grapes that would become the first Amarone produced in the small village of Erbin. Now La Collina dei Cilliegi produces 3 collections (Classic, Riserve and Emporium) that are exported to over 20 countries worldwide. They have some of the highest vineyards in Valpolicella (750m) and with their chalky soils produce wines with excellent acidity and minerality. Their modern approach includes new blends that combine traditional and international varieties. A visit to the winery takes you on a memorable journey of the land, culture and flavours of Valpantena. Their beautifully restored farmhouse Ca’ Del Moro welcomes visitors for tastings, vineyard walks and fine dining along with 6 finely refurbished rooms, each named after symbolic wines of the region (Amarone, Valpolicella, Recioto, Ripasso, Garganega and Corvina).

AMARONE DELLA VALPOLICELLA DOCG 2018

Colour ranging from ruby core to light garnet rim. Intense flavour of ripe plum with balsamic notes of mint. A hint of vanilla. Rich in structure, with persistent ripe fruit, well balanced with soft tannins. Fresh long finish. A great wine.

CA’ LA BIONDA – www.calabionda.it

Located in the heart of Valpolicella Classico is the Azienda Agricola Ca’ La Bionda, it was founded in 1902 by Peitro Castellani in the outskirts of the town Marano di Valpolicella. Estate vineyards extend over 29 hectares and have been producing only organic wines since 2016. Now it is run by the family’s fourth generation of brothers, Alessandro (winemaker) and Nicola (viticulturist). They carry on their family’s heritage by producing genuine examples of traditional Amarone with a focus on the vineyard and the grapes. Tastings of their Valpolicella, Amarone and Ricioto are accompanied by small food pairings, and their villa provides elegant accommodation with modern amenities.

AMARONE DELLA VALPOLICELLA DOCG CLASSICO  “RAVAZZOL” 2018

The colour is medium ruby with a compact rim. Pronounced intensity of ripe red fruit mixed with notes of chocolate and tobacco. Medium body with ripe red fruit and freshness. Moderate coarse tannins. Quite a long finish.  I really appreciated it!

GIACOMO MONTRESOR – www.vinimontresor.com

The Giacomo Montresor Cellars date back to 1892 and continue today to produce wines with a unique identity and style. Hospitality has become an integral part of the winery’s philosophy, so much so that they have created a wine museum in the winery that offers an immersive experience in history, culture, and territory. Montresor produces an impressive range of Valpolicella wines that also includes a sparkling wine and an aperitivo. Their “satin-finished” or frosted bottles of Amarone were patented at the beginning of the 1900’s to protect the wine from the Atlantic sun during their first exports to North America. Winery tours are followed by a guided tasting paired with local salumi and cheese. All products are available for sale on site.

AMARONE DELLA VALPOLICELLA DOCG  “SATINATO” 2018

Deep ruby red with paler reflections. Pronounced intensity of ripe red fruit mixed with notes of chocolate and tobacco. Smooth and delicious palate with delicate tannins and quite a long aftertaste present.  A great wine!

LUCIANO ARDUINI – www.arduinivini.it

Luciano Arduini is another remarkable winery in the ‘classico’ territory of Valpolicella. Founded in the 1940’s it is now run by the third generation, Luciano with his wife, son, and daughter. Luciano has maintained the winemaking culture of his father which was mostly focused on the vineyard with minimal intervention in the cellar. However, he has added his own personal vision which included taking innovative steps to create a new and modern winery in 2000. Their tastings offer the complete range of wines together with older vintages of Amarone upon request and must be booked in advance.

AMARONE DELLA VALPOLICELLA DOCG  CLASSICO “Simison” 2018

Garnet red with a pale tinge. It displays an intense flavour of dark cherry and raspberry with light earthy overtones. Juicy and vibrant with a medium-bodied palate, firm tannins with a light smoky hint at the end. I really appreciated this wine.

MASSIMAGO – www.massimago.com

Hidden in the valley of Mezzane in Valpolicella is the Massimago winery which dates back to 1883. The name comes from Latin meaning “maximum wellness” and that is certainly what they have created here. Current owner and winemaker Camilla Rossi Chauvenet renovated the entire estate in 2003 expanding the cellars and creating a Wine Relais with 7 elegant country-style suites, a pool, private spa and restaurant serving dishes created from ingredients grown on the property. Visitors can enjoy a variety of tasting experiences from a vineyard walk to a picnic or e-bike tour.

AMARONE DELLA VALPOLICELLA DOCG 2018

Ruby core with narrow light rim. Great nose with ripe plum, spicy notes of liquorice and rhubarb. Slight notes of leather. A full-bodied wine with good freshness. Present delicate tannins and quite a long aftertaste.  I liked it.

NOVAIA – www.novaia.it

On the top of a gentle hill overlooking the Marano Valley in Valpolicella Classica sits a 15th century manor, home to the Novaia winery. The name means “new farmyard”, a place where the Vaona family settled in the 1800’s to cultivate vines, olives, cherries, corn and silkworms. Here they found an ideal location with the right topography, soil, water and climate for growing grapes and the subsequent grape- drying process. Their vineyards are divided into three different ‘Cru’. The family offers visitors a ‘Woods and Wine Tour’ which consists of a guided walk among the olive groves, forest and vineyards followed by a tour of the ancient cellar and a tasting of their wines and olive oil.

AMARONE DELLA VALPOLICELLA DOCG CLASSICO “CORTE VAONA” 2018

Brilliant, deep garnet colour with compact rim. Various and intense aromas of ripe plum, blackberry and raisin. Full body with a discrete alcohol level and soft tannins. Long finish. A delicious wine.

TORRE DI TERZOLAN – www.torrediterzolan.it

Torre di Terzolan rises from an ancient stone cellar, built centuries ago by our ancestors who knew the geographical orientation there encouraged the fresh breeze of the Squaranto Valley to flow through, providing favourable ventilation for a healthy vineyard and ideal conditions for the grape drying process. Entering the cellar through a small staircase and walking through the ancient portico will transport visitors back to an age-old world of stone and silence. Near the winery visitors are also welcomed into the historic residence of Cardinal Ridolfi which now houses 4 suites decorated with glass, marble, and colourful furnishings. Tastings also include their Veneto Valpolicella DOP olive oil.

AMARONE DELLA VALPOLICELLA DOCG 2018

Bright with intense core and paler rim. The wine displays ripe red fruit and floral notes of violet with hearty overtones. Exuberant and full body on the palate, elegant fruit, and velvety tannins. Long, fresh finish. A very good wine!

VALENTINA CUBI – www.valentinacubi.it

Valentina Cubi is a love story between Valentina and Giancarlo who grew up and met each other in Valpolicella. In 1969 they invested their entire savings in 7 hectares of land in Fumane where they planted their most important vineyards. Fumane is located in the heart of Valpolicella Classica and boasts the renowned Molina falls and the Fumane cave, which was inhabited since prehistoric times. All their wines are now organic which reflects their philosophy of “great wines do not originate in wineries but in vineyards”. Their estate is also an agriturismo with 5 rooms inspired by the traditional raw materials of the area.

AMARONE DELLA VALPOLICELLA DOCG  CLASSICO “MORAR” 2018

Brilliant with a deep ruby core. Pronounced bouquet of black cherry, dried prune and fig. Overtones of coconut and the scent of tobacco. Good structure with firm, velvety tannins, and long length. A wine with a personality.

ZYME’ – www.zyme.it

Last but certainly not least is Zýmē, a state-of-the-art winery ingeniously built on a 15th century sandstone quarry in the heart of Valpolicella Classica. The owner and winemaker, Celestino Gaspari, grew up in the fields outside of Verona and was deeply influenced by the soil and seasons. In his 20’s he studied with renowned winemaker Giuseppe Quintarelli and through much hard work developed his own personal vision of the winegrower’s profession. In 1999 he was ready to build his own winery that represented a synergy between tradition and innovation, man, and nature. His wines are meant to be transparent to all, so that those who drink it can “read in every sip” his connection with the land.

AMARONE DELLA VALPOLICELLA DOCG CLASSICO 2018

Medium garnet core, pale on the rim. The nose shows the beautiful flavour of blueberries. Spicy with a hint of anise. The palate is elegant with overtones of black cherry and fig. Dry, medium plus body, silky tannins, and a long finish. A great wine!