CHAMPAGNE CHARLIE

Les Americains might still be teetotalers if it weren’t for Champagne Charlie, who filled flutes to the brim across the Atlantic rim when he visited the Etats-Unis. The Age of Innocence didn’t know what hit them when the fun-loving francophone Charles Heidsieck swaggered onto the haute New York City society scene with bottles of bubbly tucked under his arm.

The eponymously-named son of a champagne merchant, Charles was appalled to notice while on his grand tour of Nouvelle Angleterre et Nouvelle York that the swank fetes he attended from Back Bay to the Breakers to the Upper East Side were bereft of bubbly. Coming from a long family tradition of never-one-to-miss-an-opportunity (his father, after all, was famous for riding ahead of Napoleon with cases of champagne to sell for the famed victory parties) he immediately saw the potential for exporting his French family brew to the United States and considered it to be his life’s mission to inebriate the American bourgeois. And once he plied heirs and heiresses with their first “taste of the stars” they thought he’d hung the moon.

America loved Charlie. And Charlie loved champagne. Charles quickly found a sales agent to help him import champagne from his home near Reims to the nouveau monde. Parades and banquets were held in his honor with corks popping and pomp and circumstance following him wherever he went. The New York Times sang his praises, giving the type of publicity the PR agencies representing champagne houses today pray for. Almost overnight, Champagne Charlie was living the American Dream.

The Yankees didn’t have a monopoly on Heidsieck and despite the brewing tensions between the North and South, the libations introduced in Manhattan slipped their way south into the seaside mansions of Charleston, debutante balls in Savannah and cotillions in Memphis. A formal dinner wasn’t considered dinner in New Orleans without some champagne and in Atlanta plantations wouldn’t be caught dead without having bubbly on hand. Frankly, my dear, everyone who was anyone gave a damn about this nouveau import called champagne.

And while all’s well that ends well, Heidsieck’s road to success wasn’t simply smooth sailing. While America stayed enamored with the golden god Charlie introduced, he fell from good graces when he was accused of being a spy and subsequently imprisoned. In a life story that reminds one they should always choose their business partners wisely, Heidsick was betrayed by the agent whom he’d hired to roll out the bottle of bubbly to the American market.

Charles had imported heavily from France to America and more than half his family fortune was tied up overseas. His sales agent loved the success the importation of champagne had brought him, but he got greedy and felt he should be getting more recognition and funds from the sale of champagne than he was currently receiving. When the Civil War erupted it provided the perfect excuse to knock Charlie from his pedestal and to pad his own pockets. The agent twisted a law meant to restrict the movement of funds between the North and South to apply to the importation of products from abroad, leaving Heidsieck up the proverbial creek without a paddle and penniless. Charles’s only hope was that the Southerners had more morals than his New York sales agent.

Going South, Champagne Charlie prayed the Southern merchants who had received his champagne would be willing to pay him directly. And while their hearts might have been willing, their pocketbooks weren’t—the South was nearly bankrupt by the war and incapable of paying their debts. Even worse, Charles discovered that the routes back to the north were sealed and he had no choice but to return to La République with his tail between his legs. To facilitate his passage, the French Consul asked Heidsieck to deliver a diplomatic pouch on his behalf, and in a move that can only be described as kicking a dog when he’s down, the diplomatic pouch was seized by the Union. Heidsieck—a man beloved by America—was accused of spying for both the Confederacy and the French government. Tossed in the slammer, his pleas of innocence and ignorance of the pouch’s contents were ignored.

Fortunately for Charlie, he was a well-connected chap and word of his unfair imprisonment leaked. Before long President Abraham Lincoln and the French Emperor Napoleon III were embroiled in deep conversations over “The Heidsieck Incident”. While discussions over his release prevailed, Heidsieck’s health failed as he was denied his daily elixir of champagne. His family was nearly bankrupt by the incident and began selling plots of valuable land in the Champagne region to pay Heidsieck’s debts and upon his release from prison for his safe passage to France. And that might have been the end of the story, had it not been for an American missionary who approached Charles a few years later while he convalesced in France with a letter he’d been asked to hand-deliver across the pond.

The brother of Heidsieck’s former sales agent in New York was ashamed of his brother’s actions that had cheated Heidsieck out of his income and led indirectly to his imprisonment simply for being at the wrong place at the wrong time with the wrong message in his pocket. As a gift of reconciliation, the agent’s brother offered Heidsieck a stack of deeds granting him 1/3 ownership of a tiny village in Colorado. And while initially Heidsieck scoffed, that tiny village became one of the largest and wealthiest cities on the American frontier and, with the proceeds Champagne Charlie earned by selling his deeds to Denver, he was able to relaunch his champagne house. Today, over 120 years after Champagne Charlie’s death, Piper Heidsieck is one of the premier champagne houses in France and America still has a love affair with champagne.Les Americains might still be teetollers if it weren’t for Champagne Charlie, who filled flutes to the brim across the Atlantic rim when he visited the Etats-Unis. The Age of Innocence didn’t know what hit them when the fun-loving francophone Charles Heidsieck swaggered onto the haute New York City society scene with bottles of bubbly tucked under his arm.

The eponymously named son of a champagne merchant, Charles was appalled to notice while on his grand tour of Nouvelle Angleterre et Nouvelle York that the swank fetes he attended from Back Bay to the Breakers to the Upper East Side were bereft of bubbly. Coming from a long family tradition of never-one-to-miss-an-opportunity (his father, after all, was famous for riding ahead of Napoleon with cases of champagne to sell for the famed victory parties) he immediately saw the potential for exporting his French family brew to the United States and considered it to be his life’s mission to inebriate the American bourgeois. And once he plied heirs and heiresses with their first “taste of the stars” they thought he’d hung the moon.

America loved Charlie. And Charlie loved champagne.
Charles quickly found a sales agent to help him import champagne from his home near Reims to the nouveau monde. Parades and banquets were held in his honor with corks popping and pomp and circumstance following him wherever he went. The New York Times sang his praises, giving the type of publicity the PR agencies representing champagne houses today pray for. Almost overnight, Champagne Charlie was living the American Dream.

The Yankees didn’t have a monopoly on Heidsieck and despite the brewing tensions between the North and South, the libations introduced in Manhattan slipped their way south into the seaside mansions of Charleston, debutante balls in Savannah and cotillions in Memphis. A formal dinner wasn’t considered dinner in New Orleans without some champagne and in Atlanta plantations wouldn’t be caught dead without having bubbly on hand. Frankly, my dear, everyone who was anyone gave a damn about this nouveau import called champagne.

And while all’s well that ends well, Heidsieck’s road to success wasn’t simply smooth sailing. While America stayed enamored with the golden god Charlie introduced, he fell from good graces when he was accused of being a spy and subsequently imprisoned. In a life story that reminds one they should always choose their business partners wisely, Heidsick was betrayed by the agent whom he’d hired to roll out the bottle of bubbly to the American market.

Charles had imported heavily from France to America and more than half his family fortune was tied up overseas. His sales agent loved the success the importation of champagne had brought him, but he got greedy and felt he should be getting more recognition and funds from the sale of champagne than he was currently receiving. When the Civil War erupted it provided the perfect excuse to knock Charlie from his pedestal and to pad his own pockets. The agent twisted a law meant to restrict the movement of funds between the North and South to apply to the importation of products from abroad, leaving Heidsieck up the proverbial creek without a paddle and penniless. Charles’s only hope was that the Southerners had more morals than his New York sales agent.

Going South, Champagne Charlie prayed the Southern merchants who had received his champagne would be willing to pay him directly. And while their hearts might have been willing, their pocketbooks weren’t—the South was nearly bankrupt by the war and incapable of paying their debts. Even worse, Charles discovered that the routes back to the north were sealed and he had no choice but to return to La République with his tail between his legs. To facilitate his passage, the French Consul asked Heidsieck to deliver a diplomatic pouch on his behalf, and in a move that can only be described as kicking a dog when he’s down, the diplomatic pouch was seized by the Union. Heidsieck—a man beloved by America—was accused of spying for both the Confederacy and the French government. Tossed in the slammer, his pleas of innocence and ignorance of the pouch’s contents were ignored.

Fortunately for Charlie, he was a well-connected chap and word of his unfair imprisonment leaked. Before long President Abraham Lincoln and the French Emperor Napoleon III were embroiled in deep conversations over “The Heidsieck Incident”. While discussions over his release prevailed, Heidsieck’s health failed as he was denied his daily elixir of champagne. His family was nearly bankrupt by the incident and began selling plots of valuable land in the Champagne region to pay Heidsieck’s debts and upon his release from prison for his safe passage to France. And that might have been the end of the story, had it not been for an American missionary who approached Charles a few years later while he convalesced in France with a letter he’d been asked to hand-deliver across the pond.

The brother of Heidsieck’s former sales agent in New York was ashamed of his brother’s actions that had cheated Heidsieck out of his income and led indirectly to his imprisonment simply for being at the wrong place at the wrong time with the wrong message in his pocket. As a gift of reconciliation, the agent’s brother offered Heidsieck a stack of deeds granting him 1/3 ownership of a tiny village in Colorado. And while initially Heidsieck scoffed, that tiny village became one of the largest and wealthiest cities on the American frontier and, with the proceeds Champagne Charlie earned by selling his deeds to Denver, he was able to relaunch his champagne house. Today, over 120 years after Champagne Charlie’s death, Piper Heidsieck is one of the premier champagne houses in France and America still has a love affair with champagne.

Santé!
Bonjour Paris

BRANSON B. HIP-HOP’S UNOFFICIAL SOMMELIER HAS LAUNCHED HIS OWN CHAMPAGNE BRAND

On a ragged stretch of sidewalk in northwest Harlem across the street from a dingy bodega, a weathered wooden door separates the outside world from an oenophiles’ wonderland. A homemade bar dominates the room, backed by walls plastered with cutouts from wine publications. Empty bottles of Nicolas Feuillatte, Armand de Brignac and Cristal loom like a hunter’s trophies along the shelves.

On a torpid summer evening, Branson Belchie–better known as Branson B., hip-hop’s unofficial sommelier–hovers behind the bar in search of an acceptable champagne, every move punctuated by a slight flutter of his dreadlocks. Life is too short to struggle through a bad bottle of bubbly.

“I never particularly cared for Moet, personally,” Branson offers. “Moet has a tendency to give me a headache. Back in the day, we drank Clicquot. I turned a lot of people on to Clicquot.” He lowers his voice. “At the time, Clicquot was really good.”

Branson is the man who introduced Cristal, Dom Perignon and a number of other pricey brands to his friends Christopher “Notorious B.I.G.” Wallace and Sean “Diddy” Combs in the late 1980s. Within a few years, that suggestion sprouted into hip-hop’s full-fledged obsession with champagne. Branson is widely credited with starting the craze, and his name has been mentioned in more than 60 songs over the past two decades.

A self-described street entrepreneur, Branson, 52, got involved in the entertainment business during the early 1990s, serving as road manager for R&B singer Chris Williams and DeVante Swing of Jodeci. He also did consulting work for a number of other artists, and later for the producers of the film American Gangster. As Branson’s career blossomed, so did his taste in champagne. He bought Biggie a six-liter bottle of Taittinger brut one year for the rapper’s birthday; on another occasion, he provided bottles of Cristal and Dom Perignon to singers Faith Evans and Luther Vandross.

“You bust a bottle, pour a couple glasses, and just sip on it as they engage in the creative process,” says Branson. “Sometimes people acquire a taste for one or the other. Like, ‘Yo, I really like that Cristal.’ You go back through there, they’ve got their own bottle of Cristal and they’re offering you a drink now.”

By the turn of the century Branson was beginning to realize that he’d created a trusted brand–and that it was time to capitalize. So he teamed up with Guy Charlemagne champagne to create his own label, Guy Charlemagne Selected By Branson B. In 2004 Branson traveled to France’s Champagne region to handpick the grapes for a blanc de blancs, a brut rosé and a 2000 vintage Grand Cru.

A longtime patron of Guy Charlemagne, Branson used the winemaker’s existing offerings as a template and tweaked them to his satisfaction. The process was simple enough for someone with a palate as refined as his. “If you want a little more zest to it,” he says, “you add more pinot grapes.”

Branson launched his champagnes in 2005, starting with 100 cases distributed between a handful of stores in New York. All three earned high marks from Wine Spectator, which gave the blanc de blancs a coveted 91 rating, praising its “subtle length on the finish” and its “fine balance and intensity.” Branson’s products also caught the attention of J.R. Battipaglia, store manager of Garnet Wine and Spirits on Manhattan’s Upper East Side.

“They’re really good wines, really top quality wines,” he says. “The grapes come from a village with very chalky soil. The whites tend to be very mineraly, with almost a hint of sea salt, very crisp. For the people in the champagne world who want to experience these things, it’s a unique experience.”

Battipaglia, who still carries Branson’s bubbly, says sales have slowed during the recession, but no more than other champagne labels. Meanwhile, Branson hasn’t gotten quite as much support from the hip-hop crowd as he’d expected–many artists are too busy shilling their own spirits to give him any publicity. Branson’s old friend Diddy plugs Ciroc vodka, Ludacris recently launched a cognac called Conjure, and T.I. inked an endorsement deal with Remy Martin.

Undaunted, Branson is pressing forward. Over the past few months he’s been wading through the paperwork needed to sell his wines in other states and online, hoping that a Web presence will help take sales to the next level.

“I’m just trying to solidify a market share,” he says. “I don’t want to be an overnight situation. I want to build a solid company, a solid brand, and I want people that aspire to this lifestyle to consider my product when they decide they want a glass of champagne.” His blanc de blancs ($45), brut rosé ($50) and 2000 vintage Grand Cru ($75) are relative bargains for champagnes of their quality, according to independent wine buyer and critic Lyle Fass. But Branson may need to reconsider the cost of his champagne if he wants to make a big splash in the rap world. “No hip-hopper is going to buy those wines at that price,” says Fass. “He needs to mark them up.”

A $45 sticker price may not be glamorous enough for the average rapper, but back at his champagne speakeasy in Harlem, Branson seems unconcerned. Emerging from behind the bar, he softly pops open a bottle of his 2000 vintage and tips a trickle of champagne to the floor before filling two flutes. “To life.”

“You know,” he says, taking a long sip, “I think what makes a champagne great is that you enjoy it.”

Forbes.com

CHAMPAGNE CHRISTENING

The custom of breaking a bottle of wine over a ship’s bow as it is being launched dates back to the late 17th century, champagne replacing wine in more modern times.

Initially the Navy ‘baptized’ their ships with a ‘standing cup’ of precious metal, which was “afterwords” thrown overboard, but with the increased production of ships as the British Empire spread across the world that became too expensive, so the cup was dispensed with and the bottle allowed to swing against the bow and break instead.

Inevitably superstitions grew up around this ceremony, reinforced in 1911 when the Titanic was launched for the White Star Line. Lord Pirrie, Chairman of Harland & Wolff, simply gave an order to the launch foreman to let the ship slide into the water. There was no formal naming ceremony, and no bottle of champagne was broken over her bows, so Titanic was never christened. The story of her short life is well known…

Champagne Bollinger