“Ungrafted Vines” hits the silver screen in 2024

He’s a winemaker, a rebel, an iconoclast and an outspoken critic of Bordeaux’s “industrial soup” style of winemaking – and now Loïc Pasquet is an unlikely movie star.

Pasquet’s battles with the Bordeaux establishment have seen him dragged to court, fined and forbidden from using the Bordeaux appellation because of his commitment ungrafted vines and native Bordeaux varieties. However, he has had the sweetest of revenges by producing a wine that has become the most expensive Bordeaux-produced wine – and now a movie about his achievements is hitting the screen.

The 51-minute documentary will air via Apple TV next year and features Pasquet documenting his battles with bureaucracy and his dedication to recreating the pre-phylloxera wines of Bordeaux. It also features input from respected wine writers like Jane Anson and Jacky Rigaux.

Pasquet, who bought his first bottle of wine when he was just 11 years old, believes that wine is a European cultural treasure and that it has been debased by too many Bordeaux producers in order to pander to critics, rather than simply making wines that reflect the terroir.

“Why destroy that heritage to make one style of wine? They are saying to [wine critic Robert] Parker ‘What wine do you like? We will make it for you.’ They are making industrial soup,” he told journalists at a preview of the film.

The launch of Pasquet’s 2015 vintage of Liber Pater at a staggering $33,000 (subsequent vintages have also hit that mark) was the spark for the documentary, but he was open about his pricing policy.

“This is what my customers will pay to drink something that nobody else can. If you go into space, how much does it cost?”

He was referencing his wines being made from grapes grown on ungrafted vines, an anomaly in Bordeaux.

“If you try a Bordeaux from 1860 [before phylloxera prompted the grafting of vines onto disease-resistant rootstocks] and 1960 you can taste the difference. Grafting changes the chemical composition of the wine.”

Source: Wine Searcher

400 Drones Light Up The Sky At The Bordeaux Wine Festival

The Bordeaux Wine Festival was held June 22nd to 25th, where attendees were part of wine-tasting programmes and other fun experiences. But the highlight of the festival was the spectacular drone show.  The Bordeaux Wine Festival 2023 took an environment-friendly approach to replace its annual firework with drones.

Over 400 drones lit up the night sky over the Garonne River in Bordeaux. There were 20-minute shows held on both Friday and Saturday where the drones created stunning formations of wine being poured into a glass from a bottle, a vineyard, and the drones went into formation spelling: ‘Bordeaux celebrates wine’ in bold letters in the stunning night sky. The drones were operated by the French company Dronisos.

New Report: Findings reveal that 70% of Cadillac Côtes de Bordeaux is “favorable’ to “extremely favorable’” for red wine production

Experts from the Bordeaux Science Agro have just revealed a report which includes mapping of the terroir’s potential. The main objective of this eighteen-month study is to evaluate the viticultural potential of the terroir of the Cadillac Côtes de Bordeaux appellation for red wines.

Other objectives of the study include:

  1. to preserve the great viticultural terroirs;
  2. improve winegrower’s knowledge of their terroirs;
  3. identify the soil and climate characteristics of the AOC;
  4. highlight the specific characteristics of the intercommunal area; and to
  5. improve viticultural practices in relation to the soil, and lastly, ensure the ecological transition of properties and enhance the landscape.

The aim of the study was to also analyze and map out the AOC, which is spread over 39 communes and covers 27,000 hectares, including an AOC area of 13,200 hectares.

This study was broken down into three phases, as follows:

  1. Construction of the model, modelization: Initial mapping showed that over 60% of the AOC area is in favorable or even extremely favorable zones;
  2. Validation of the model: consideration of geographical and non-geographical results following interviews with winegrowers. Non-geographical results: soil, exposure, topographical position, slope; and to
  3. Improvement of the model by experts.

Here are the findings:

Five zones were established from ‘not very favorable’ to ‘extremely favorable’, with

the less favorable areas being the zones of humid alluvial plains (locally known as ‘palus’), and deep valley bottoms. Moderately favorable areas are the plateaux of redoxic silty luvisols (hydromorphic silty ‘boulbènes’) and the areas of calcareous colluviosols at the palus/slopes interface. The most favorable areas are the slopes on ‘Agenais’ molassic formations, which are predominantly to the north. The east/west facing slopes on Agenais molasses are very favorable areas, as are the areas bordering plateaux, and hilltops too. And finally, the slopes on the predominantly southern Agenais molasses, as well as convex plateaux and gravelly outcrops bordering plateaux (known as ‘peyrosols’) are extremely favorable zones in our region.

In conclusion, the findings report that 70% of the region is “favorable” to “extremely favorable” zones for red production.  To take this even deeper, here are a few facts you need to know:

Gravelly soils are the hallmark of the appellation. These deep soils provide a significant water reserve, and their depth is an important asset when it comes to coping with climate change.

The most important thing to bear in mind about the terroir is its clay soil. Soils on molassic formations are good for making wines that can be kept for a long time or aging. Swelling clay soils are the best. They provide a balanced water supply that is ideal for the vines. But clay-limestone soils also have their advantages. They help to limit water supply, control nitrogen levels in the soil, and protect the vines.

Currently, it is still very difficult to map clay soils. The variability of molasses is not conducive to mapping.

“Soil management and the development of terroirs are major challenges for the sustainability of AOCs,” explains Chantal Larnaudie, President.

The ambition is also to bring new winegrowers on board (out of 14,000 hectares of AOC vineyards, only 7,000 are planted, and 1,900 are declared as Cadillac Côtes de Bordeaux).

Finally, this study will also enable us to select the best terroirs to produce dry white wines, sweet wines, and rosé wines as the Cadillac, Cadillac Côtes de Bordeaux, and Premières Côtes de Bordeaux PDOs are the only ones in the Bordeaux region to be able to claim all wine colors as PDOs, including crémants.

The ODG is also considering widening its specifications to include new colors now that scientific data are available.

Sustainable Wine Tourism

Easy to reach, the Cadillac Côtes de Bordeaux region meets the criteria of sustainable tourism. Follow the dedicated cycle track from Bordeaux and stop off at the estates or take the train to Cérons from Gare Saint Jean in Bordeaux and you’re here in 20 minutes with an electric bike. Another possibility is by boat!

Cadillac Côtes de Bordeaux

Key figures

The AOCs:

AOC red wines (97% of volumes): Cadillac – Côtes de Bordeaux: 57,400 hl – 1,628 ha – 158 producers – 35 hl/ha – AOC white wines (3% of volumes): Cadillac: 785 hl – 45 ha – 31 producers – 14hl/ha and Premières Côtes de Bordeaux: 1,200 Hl – 48 ha – 26 producers – 24 hl/ha

* Preserving biodiversity: 90% of winegrowers have certification. 100% local products from independent winegrowers

* History: A true pioneering spirit

* Winegrowers to discover: Authenticity, with a large number of family estates (82%) handed down from father to son… or father to daughter!

* Les Grandes Côtes: A large wine-growing area with, from bottom to top, 3 geological formations perfectly well drained by the tributaries of the Garonne:

Shallow, brown soils on starfish limestone and clay, stony brown soils (clay / gravel high terraces), leached soils on plateaux (‘Boulbènes’)

* The Garonne effect: The river contributes to the uniqueness of Cadillac Côtes de Bordeaux wines thanks to the temperate local climate

* Modern wines: Perfect balance between the 4 Bordeaux grape varieties, Merlot (55%) Cabernet Sauvignon (25%), Cabernet Franc (15%) and Petit Verdot (5%).

67 Pall Mall to open wine club in Bordeaux

67 Pall Mall, a private members club for professionals and collectors has officially secured the rights to a building in central Bordeaux, with the aim of opening up in 2025. They signed a lease on a property in the Triangle d’Or, 21 Cours de l’Intendance.

Grant Ashton, Founder and CEO of 67 Pall Mall said, ‘Bordeaux is at the very heart of the world of wine and the new club provides an amazing location for members and visitors to enjoy a fantastic range of Bordeaux’s wines. The club will offer a breadth of unique local wines alongside well-known favourites for both members and non-members to enjoy.’

The club will offer the most extensive wine list in the region which will feature 5,000 by the bottle, of which 2,000 bottles will be selected from local chateaux, 1,000 from the rest of France, and 2,000 wines from the rest of the world. They will also have a selection of 500+ wines by-the-glass.

There will also be a public “Bar à Vin” on the main floor, and the first and second floors will be for members only, with access to a clubroom, bar and several private dining rooms. The fourth floor will offer a rooftop terrace with a sweeping view across the historic city.

 

Bordeaux 2022 vintage produces ‘high-quality grapes’

The Conseil Interprofessionnel du Vin de Bordeaux (CIVB) has just released its 2022 vintage report, which mentions difficult climate conditions, and 2022 being one the earliest harvests on record.

Despite these challenges, amongst others,  ‘high-quality grapes’ were still produced. Pruning was delayed to limit the risk of a late frost and customized leaf removal and trellising was deployed to protect bunches from the sun.

The 2022 report also highlights the “deep roots of Bordeaux vines” and their natural resistance to water stress as contributing factors to the good health of the grapes.

Due to the scorching summer and autumn temperatures, the harvest began 15-20 days ahead of the 10-year average.

Rain started in mid-August, which brought new life to the vines, slightly increasing the volume of the berries. Stimulated in parallel by the alternation of hot days and cool nights, the grapes were able to reach optimum ripeness, according to the report.

Ideal conditions at the end of September favoured the development of botrytis on the grapes. The weather conditions allowed for four to five successive passes through the vineyard up to the end of October.

For the third year in a row, the volume of the harvest in Bordeaux is below the 10-year average, in large part due to the drought, which had a major impact on the overall yield of the 2022 vintage.

Extreme climate events also hit the vineyards in 2022, leading to significant losses in some cases. As a result, the volume of AOC wine produced in 2022 is 4.11 million ha, 11% below the 10-year average.

The early harvest had no adverse effect on the quality of the 2022 vintage in Bordeaux. The weather conditions from the end of August to the end of October were, “ideal for picking without haste and at perfect ripeness, despite the dates being earlier than usual”, according to the report.

The dry white wines are said to possess the characteristics of a good quality vintage, maintaining freshness and acidity despite the drought.

For the rosé wines, “the juices are just the right colour and full of flavour”, the report also states.

The juices from the red grapes are “exceptional, with perfectly ripe tannins and yet without excessive alcohol levels. The wines have a unique fruitiness, silky and concentrated without being heavy”.

The early-drinking red wines of Bordeaux, “have all the qualities of well-balanced wines with very nice freshness”.

And for those destined to remain longer in bottle, their aging potential seems “particularly promising”, the report also finds.