CAMPANIA STORIES: AN UNFORGETTABLE EXPERIENCE DISCOVERING GREAT WINES AND DISTINCTIVE TERRITORIES – Filippo Magnani

The Campania region is well-known due to the stunning beauty of the Amalfi Coast, the authentic food of Naples, and the fascinating history of Pompeii. However, a deeper look beyond these treasures reveals a region rich in viticultural history, from the urban vineyards of Naples to the pristine nature and wild soul of Irpinia, one of the most fertile wine-growing regions in Italy.

The unique region of Irpinia was the backdrop to this year’s edition of Campania Stories.  This event must not be missed by international journalists and wine professionals each yearm who come to experience Campania’s newly released wines. Organized by the Miriade and Partners press agency and managed by Massimo Iannaccone, Diana Cataldo and Serena Valeriani, this is an integral part of their mission to promote the wines of Campania throughout the year. Their Campania stories can be followed at #campaniastories and #iobevocampano or by visiting their website www.campaniastories.com.

This year 90 wineries participated in Campania Stories 2023, which started with a wine tasting and gala dinner in the castle of Gesualdo, a charming town known as the home of several poets and the origin of the marble used to make the famed statues of the Royal Palace of Caserta. Gesualdo overlooks the valley of North Irpinia, with sweeping views that reach the dormant volcano Vulture in Basilicata and the plains of Puglia. In two days over 300 wines were sampled, both red and white, with a day of touring dedicated to visiting their producers. These visits were undoubtedly the most exciting part of the entire event.

Irpinia is home to Campania’s three DOCG’s, the internationally renowned Greco di Tufo, Fiano di Avellino and Taurasi with the key grape varieties being Greco and Fiano for the whites and Aglianico for the reds. The terroir here benefits from high-altitude hillsides and a diurnal shift in temperatures that helps ensure slow ripening and good levels of acidity in the grapes. Here you can find a mixture of volcanic, limestone, and clay soils. The vineyards are surrounded by forests and hazelnut orchards cultivated for generations.

The winemakers here let nature take control as much as possible. This is the case at the family winery Di Prisco, founded in 1994 just outside of Fontanarosa, renowned worldwide for its pink marble. The owner Michele Di Prisco works with just 15 hectares of vines. My favourite wine of the tour is the 2003 Taurasi; the 2003 vintage was a scorching and dry year that is now showing its best. The dark, deep, impenetrable colour was illuminated with orange reflections. On the nose, it showed jammy notes – blackberry jam – some tomato sauce notes and slightly bloody. On the mouth it was impressive with notes of molasses and dark fruit, earthy but with live grippy tannins.

Another important area showcased on these winery visits was the Sannio district, a hidden gem in Campania. This historical place has been cultivating the white grape Falanghina for over 2000 years. Roman buildings stand next to modern ones. The landscape is breathtaking, covered in vineyards, olive groves, steep slopes, and rivers, dominated by the imposing Taburno mountain. Formerly known as an area for bulk white wine production, Sannio producers along with the Consortium Sannio DOP have worked hard over the last decade to develop high-quality wines with complexity, many of which are suitable for aging.

A perfect example is Fattoria La Rivolta in Torrecuso. A century-old winery was founded from a family tradition of farming when the grandson and then pharmacist, Paolo Cotroneo, decided to plant vineyards in the late 90’s. With the help of his sisters Giovanna and Gabriella and their cousin Giancarlo they have built an estate that is now 60 hectares, with 30 hectares of vineyards located in Sannio and mainly on the hill of Taburno. The exposure and richness of soil is its defining characteristics. This is also the origin of their flagship wine, Falanghina Sannio DOP, Sottozona Taburno, a wine with green hues and a lot of personality. Nectarine, stone fruit flavours, a touch of floral notes, such as acacia on the nose, while in the mouth it shows a light salty taste and vibrant citrusy notes that dissipate with an almondy finish. This a clear example of the finest quality of local wines from Sannio.

I look forward to attending next year’s Campania Stories which has just been announced will be held in Sannio itself!

WineGB Releases its 2023 Industry Report

Last week Wine GB released its 2023 Industry Report, which includes the latest data from producers and figures supplied by Wine Standards.

Here are some key findings:

  • Plantings continue to grow – there are currently just under 4,000ha under vine, with forecasts predicting an increase to 7,600ha by 2032;
  • In terms of production, the mid-range prediction is that production will reach 25 to 29 million bottles by 2032;
  • Wine remains one of the fastest-growing agricultural sectors in Britain;
  • In 2022, total production was 12.2 million bottles: 68% sparkling, and 32% still;
  • Sales channels and distribution in 2022 include:
  • On trade has increased– 22% (from 14%)
  • Exports up from 4% to 7%
  • Off-trade up to 41%
  • DTC now 30% from 57% – this reflects post-pandemic sales returning to hospitality and retail.

Wine Tourism

Wine tourism is buoyant and shows a positive growth trajectory; income is up – now averages 24% of total revenue. Visitor numbers are up 17% from 2021.

Ned Awty, Interim WineGB CEO says: “We are used to seeing rapid growth of plantings and production and this year is no different, with plantings up 74% in five years and a production of 12.2mn bottles, almost a record! Thanks to an overwhelming response to our membership survey, we now have our most comprehensive data set ever for wine production in the UK. The data gives us new insights into the ever-increasing importance of wine tourism, the scale and diversity of employment in our sector and an in-depth view of sales channels from the largest to smallest producers.”

Chair of WineGB, Sam Linter, said: “These truly are exciting times for English and Welsh wine. Our latest report is from the most robust data yet and we are pleased to have this access. It not only sets out where we are today but looks ahead to the next ten years in terms of production and the many opportunities. We have become an internationally acclaimed wine growing region of the highest quality.”

The industry report is available Industry & Statistics Insights

Sources:
WineGB and Wine Standards

New Report: Findings reveal that 70% of Cadillac Côtes de Bordeaux is “favorable’ to “extremely favorable’” for red wine production

Experts from the Bordeaux Science Agro have just revealed a report which includes mapping of the terroir’s potential. The main objective of this eighteen-month study is to evaluate the viticultural potential of the terroir of the Cadillac Côtes de Bordeaux appellation for red wines.

Other objectives of the study include:

  1. to preserve the great viticultural terroirs;
  2. improve winegrower’s knowledge of their terroirs;
  3. identify the soil and climate characteristics of the AOC;
  4. highlight the specific characteristics of the intercommunal area; and to
  5. improve viticultural practices in relation to the soil, and lastly, ensure the ecological transition of properties and enhance the landscape.

The aim of the study was to also analyze and map out the AOC, which is spread over 39 communes and covers 27,000 hectares, including an AOC area of 13,200 hectares.

This study was broken down into three phases, as follows:

  1. Construction of the model, modelization: Initial mapping showed that over 60% of the AOC area is in favorable or even extremely favorable zones;
  2. Validation of the model: consideration of geographical and non-geographical results following interviews with winegrowers. Non-geographical results: soil, exposure, topographical position, slope; and to
  3. Improvement of the model by experts.

Here are the findings:

Five zones were established from ‘not very favorable’ to ‘extremely favorable’, with

the less favorable areas being the zones of humid alluvial plains (locally known as ‘palus’), and deep valley bottoms. Moderately favorable areas are the plateaux of redoxic silty luvisols (hydromorphic silty ‘boulbènes’) and the areas of calcareous colluviosols at the palus/slopes interface. The most favorable areas are the slopes on ‘Agenais’ molassic formations, which are predominantly to the north. The east/west facing slopes on Agenais molasses are very favorable areas, as are the areas bordering plateaux, and hilltops too. And finally, the slopes on the predominantly southern Agenais molasses, as well as convex plateaux and gravelly outcrops bordering plateaux (known as ‘peyrosols’) are extremely favorable zones in our region.

In conclusion, the findings report that 70% of the region is “favorable” to “extremely favorable” zones for red production.  To take this even deeper, here are a few facts you need to know:

Gravelly soils are the hallmark of the appellation. These deep soils provide a significant water reserve, and their depth is an important asset when it comes to coping with climate change.

The most important thing to bear in mind about the terroir is its clay soil. Soils on molassic formations are good for making wines that can be kept for a long time or aging. Swelling clay soils are the best. They provide a balanced water supply that is ideal for the vines. But clay-limestone soils also have their advantages. They help to limit water supply, control nitrogen levels in the soil, and protect the vines.

Currently, it is still very difficult to map clay soils. The variability of molasses is not conducive to mapping.

“Soil management and the development of terroirs are major challenges for the sustainability of AOCs,” explains Chantal Larnaudie, President.

The ambition is also to bring new winegrowers on board (out of 14,000 hectares of AOC vineyards, only 7,000 are planted, and 1,900 are declared as Cadillac Côtes de Bordeaux).

Finally, this study will also enable us to select the best terroirs to produce dry white wines, sweet wines, and rosé wines as the Cadillac, Cadillac Côtes de Bordeaux, and Premières Côtes de Bordeaux PDOs are the only ones in the Bordeaux region to be able to claim all wine colors as PDOs, including crémants.

The ODG is also considering widening its specifications to include new colors now that scientific data are available.

Sustainable Wine Tourism

Easy to reach, the Cadillac Côtes de Bordeaux region meets the criteria of sustainable tourism. Follow the dedicated cycle track from Bordeaux and stop off at the estates or take the train to Cérons from Gare Saint Jean in Bordeaux and you’re here in 20 minutes with an electric bike. Another possibility is by boat!

Cadillac Côtes de Bordeaux

Key figures

The AOCs:

AOC red wines (97% of volumes): Cadillac – Côtes de Bordeaux: 57,400 hl – 1,628 ha – 158 producers – 35 hl/ha – AOC white wines (3% of volumes): Cadillac: 785 hl – 45 ha – 31 producers – 14hl/ha and Premières Côtes de Bordeaux: 1,200 Hl – 48 ha – 26 producers – 24 hl/ha

* Preserving biodiversity: 90% of winegrowers have certification. 100% local products from independent winegrowers

* History: A true pioneering spirit

* Winegrowers to discover: Authenticity, with a large number of family estates (82%) handed down from father to son… or father to daughter!

* Les Grandes Côtes: A large wine-growing area with, from bottom to top, 3 geological formations perfectly well drained by the tributaries of the Garonne:

Shallow, brown soils on starfish limestone and clay, stony brown soils (clay / gravel high terraces), leached soils on plateaux (‘Boulbènes’)

* The Garonne effect: The river contributes to the uniqueness of Cadillac Côtes de Bordeaux wines thanks to the temperate local climate

* Modern wines: Perfect balance between the 4 Bordeaux grape varieties, Merlot (55%) Cabernet Sauvignon (25%), Cabernet Franc (15%) and Petit Verdot (5%).

Sicily En Primeur: A Glimpse at a Wine Destination Par Excellence – Filippo Magnani

A few weeks ago, one of Sicily’s highly anticipated wine events took place in the beautiful town of Taormina, one of Sicily’s main tourist destinations, on the slope of the tallest active volcano in Europe, Mount Etna or ‘A Muntagna’ as locals call it. Sicily En Primeur is an itinerant event created by the association Assovini Sicilia to introduce the wines of the most recent harvest and to highlight its member wineries as the “ambassadors and guardians of culture and territories.” Starting in 2004, this was the nineteenth edition of the event which was attended by over one hundred national and international accredited wine writers and included nine wine tours, eight hundred wines for tasting, sixty wineries and five masterclasses, hosted by Elizabeth Gabay, Master of Wine. Assovini Sicilia was founded in 1998 by Diego Planeta, Giacomo Rallo and Lucio Tasca d’Almerita. Their mission was to bring together a team of producers who shared a common goal: to raise awareness about the importance of Sicilian wine. Today the association strives to protect and strengthen its territorial identity by highlighting the cultural richness of the different terroirs as well as the stylistic interpretations of their winemakers.

The association presented its vision for Sicilian wine production, and its connection to tourism as a means to create unique wine experiences. The President of Assovini Sicilia,  Laurent de la Gatinais, described Sicily as “a wine destination of excellence, the Napa Valley of the Mediterranean, because of its variety and quality of wine, beautiful landscapes, and unique historical and archaeological heritage.”  The event also highlighted the fact that, in addition to wine tourism, the new generation of Sicilian winemakers is focusing on sustainability and the environment. Of the fifteen new producers, eleven of them are women. These dynamic young people have studied and worked outside Sicily to gain valuable skills in marketing, economics, and oenology. They share a passion for the history of their island and families, but also a strong desire to bring new ideas and innovation to Sicilian viticulture.

Layers of terroir, culture and history have created a truly unique territory

Sicily holds over 3,000 years of rich viticulture history. From the Greeks to the English, the island has been influenced by many civilizations but has managed to preserve a unique identity in its language, cuisine, and territory of wines without fully yielding to these outside influences. As a Mediterranean crossroads it has developed a rich culture that can be experienced through its architecture, cuisine, music, and art. Perhaps even more diverse, however, is its terroir and wine. In an hour you could be skiing on Mount Etna at 2,000 metres over lava and black volcanic soil, and then move to the shores of Catania to bask on the sandy beach. Other areas to the west and south are rich in limestone and clay. The island is the biggest in the Mediterranean and one of its most mountainous. This of course is reflected in the impressive variety of wine styles you can find here, from crisp, clean sparkling wines to full, deep reds and luscious fortified wines. Sicily has 1 DOCG (Cerasuolo di Vittoria), 23 DOC’s and 7 IGP’s.

The main grapes grown in Sicily are the white Grillo and black Nero d’Avola, together with the main grapes of Mt. Etna being: Nerello Mascalese and Carricante. Many local producers, including long-established families who planted international grapes like Cabernet, Chardonnay and Syrah 40 years ago, have now started to draw attention to lesser-known varieties like Nerello Cappuccio, Catarratto (named Lucido) Insolia, Zibibbo, Frappato and Perricone.

Made In Sicily: Wine tourism creates a cultural symbol of excellence

It is no surprise that the President of Assovini Sicilia compared Sicily to the Napa Valley. It is roughly at the same latitude, and for an island just slightly bigger than Massachusetts its total vine covered acreage is about 40% of that in California. In addition to the broad array of high-quality wines, it offers stunning scenery and a unique historical and architectural heritage. Some of the best-preserved antiquity sites are found across the island and are layered in with all the cultures that came after. One can visit Sicily’s largest Greek theatre in Taormina and in less than an hour be wine tasting on the slopes of Mt Etna, or visit Moorish influenced mosaics at a Normand cathedral in Palermo then spend the afternoon exploring the best Marsala wineries.  Few places offer such rich experiences with wineries so well equipped to receive visitors. Among the members of Assovini Sicilia, almost all of them have a dedicated facility for wine tourism with a cellar for tastings and over half of them offer integrated experiences from cooking classes to wellness and wine tours that interact with the landscape and culture. The most popular wine experiences offered are sunset tastings, dinners in the vineyard and a chance to join the grape harvest. One third of these wineries also have lodging facilities where wine enthusiasts can fully immerse themselves in the terroir and team culture of the winery.

During the Sicily en Primeur some fantastic wines were presented, all of which were from the Etna region, where viticulture is still manually done on its steep slopes. With an average altitude of 800 metres, wines from Etna are vertical, sharp, and crisp. It’s no coincidence that the largest producer of sparkling wine from Southern Italy is based here which is Firriato, with a total production of 200K bottles per year.

 

Liz Palmer appointed Vice President of FIJEV / International Federation of Wine and Spirits Journalists and Writers – Paris

I’m honored to share the news that I have been appointed Vice President of FIJEV / International Federation of Wine and Spirits Journalists and Writers – Paris, commencing immediately.

I appreciate this opportunity to contribute to the organization and look forward to utilizing my skills and knowledge to lead FIJEV into the future. 

I also look forward to working closely with Wolfgang Junglas, President, Sol Gradman, Vice-President, Anne Meglioli, Secretaire Generale, and Frederic Gautier, Tresorier.

About FIJEV
The International Federation of Wine and Spirit Journalist and Writers/Fédération Internationale des Journalistes et Écrivains des Vins et Spiritueux (FIJEV) is a French non-profit federation created in 1987 and based in Paris. FIJEV has got over 200 members in over 60 countries.
Its goal is to promote contacts between wine and spirits journalists and writers all over the world and to defend their profession. Beyond providing an international press card, aims at helping its members to establish contacts to editors, newspapers and magazines in other countries; assure the recognition of its members by the producers, publishers, public relations’ organizations and all members of the trade; create contacts between organizations of the wine and spirit business organizing press presentation (events, tours) and its journalist members; defend its journalist members and the freedom of the press; respect of a common code of ethics.