Bubble War – Is it Champagne or Sparkling Wine?

Wine labeling remains a highly confusing affair.

The challenges range from the place-specific labels on most French, Italian and Spanish wines (such as Montrachet, Chianti and Rioja) that require a good deal of knowledge to understand what’s actually in the bottle, to the continuing use of “Champagne” as a generic word for sparkling wines.

The last time I checked, Duck Walk Vineyards had not joined Pol Roger, Moet or Bollinger as a genuine Champagne producer.

No, Duck Walk makes a sparkling wine in New York, on the east end of Long Island, and when I recently came across a sign on the road advertising the release of its first “Champagne,” it made me curious about the state of the sparkling wine war that has been going on for decades over the use of the Champagne name.

“The misuse of place names to sell wine is as old as the American wine industry,” Carol Robertson noted in an article on the subject in Business Law Today, a news magazine published by the American Bar Association.

“Borrowing the name of a well-regarded wine was a shorthand way for new winemakers to impart some of the cachet of a better-known beverage to a new American product.”

Korbel, she points out, has been using “Champagne” to describe its California sparkling wine since 1882

In 2006, after years of negotiation between the United States and the European Union, the U.S. Congress passed legislation prohibiting the future use of Champagne and 15 other so-called semi-generic place names such as Burgundy and Chianti, although it did not stop the practice by wineries that had been using them before the law, so the Korbels of the world were “grandfathered.” Then, just a few months ago, the Long Island wine region became one of the latest signatories to the Joint Declaration to Protect Wine Place & Origin, “a global movement aimed at ensuring wine place names are protected and not abused or miscommunicated to consumers,” as a press release by the coalition described it.

Champagne is also among the 15 wine regions on the list.

The declaration says that when place names “appear on wines that do not contain fruit from that region, they lose their integrity and their relevance, becoming merely words.”

What’s interesting about Duck Walk’s use of “Champagne” is that it is doing so only in its outdoor advertisements.

Its wine bottles are labeled “brut,” the common designation for dry sparkling wines, with no Champagne reference.

So I asked one of Duck Walk’s owners, Alexander Damianos, to explain his thinking.

“When you’re dealing with the typical consumer in the United States they kind of equate a fine bottle of sparkling wine with Champagne,” he said. “That’s the only reason I put the sign on the street that way.”

He maintained that most Americans don’t know there is an actual region called Champagne in France and said he thought there was nothing wrong with using “Champagne” on his signs, calling it “just a marketing thing to get people to come in and taste our first release.”

For clarity, and without mentioning the winery by name, I put the question to Art Resnick, director of public and media affairs at the Alcohol and Tobacco Tax and Trade Bureau of the U.S. Treasury Department.

I wanted to know if the 2006 law restricting the use of semi-generic names like Champagne applied to both labeling and advertising.

After some research, he told me that, indeed, it did, and that “everything that pertains to semi-generic labeling also pertains to advertising.”

By contrast, another Long Island winery, Pugliese Vineyards, uses Champagne in an outdoor sign as well and goes further. It advertises a line of “dazzling Champagnes” on its Web site and calls them Champagne on its bottles, all of it permissible because Pugliese’s use of the name goes back to the 1980s, predating the 2006 law.

I described all of this to Sonia Smith, director of the Champagne Bureau, the region’s lobbying group in Washington, which fights to preserve the integrity of the Champagne name in the United States and elsewhere.

“When people drink a wine they need to be able to trust what it is,” she told me, reciting one of the bureau’s key message points. “It’s about a sense of place. It’s about authenticity.

“To be honest, there are wonderful sparkling wines made in the United States, except that they’re just not Champagne. The winemakers of Long Island should be very confident of the sparkling wine they make and should be confident about advertising it as sparkling wine.”

With that in mind, I enjoyed two sparkling wines myself recently, one a blanc de blanc, an all-chardonnay offering from Schramsberg, the famed California producer, the other a Blanquette de Limoux from Antech Limoux, a producer in the Languedoc region of southern France.

Champagne? No. Superb sparkling wines? Most definitely.

Reuters Life

Searcy’s is Europe’s Longest Champagne Bar

Situated within one of our most favoured English Heritage sites at St Pancras Station, you can find champagne lovers paradise. Searcy’s Champagne bar boasts the largest selection of Grand Marque houses available in the UK, twenty of which can be enjoyed by the glass.

I never thought I would be writing about, essentially, a bar at a train station for Lussorian – but Searcys offers much more than that.

Starting with the surrounding stunning architecture of the Barlow shed, to Europe’s longest champagne bar The place is very special. At over 90 meters long, no other bar comes close. The breathtaking, panoramic view of the entire terminal is on show from each seat at The Champagne Bar. Recharge while you watch the world scurry past.

Seating for 110, choose from 12 leather clad banquettes – which happily seat six (with individual fan heaters below the seats, which are also heated) to additional seating on small tables and bar stools.

Whilst not a restaurant, The Champagne bar does serve up some fine food, with the emphasis being on complimenting the Champagne. Open sandwiches and Champagne breakfasts fit the bill perfectly.

A stones throw from the Eurostar terminal, this is an ideal spot to meet for business or pleasure. The Champagne Sommeliers’ knowledge is extensive and shared willingly, so you could argue there is some education to be had!

If you are setting off from Kings Cross soon, do not forget to go out in style. You just cannot get any better than this.



Champagne’s stiffest competition comes not from Prosecco, Cava or English sparkling wine – but from Viagra, according to Pierre-Emmanuel Taittinger.

Speaking at the Reuters Global Luxury Summit last week, the Taittinger chief executive also predicted that Champagne exports to China will outstrip the US within 15 years.

And he expects Champagne sales to rebound this year, aided by the weaker Euro, restocking in the supply chain and surging demand in emerging markets.

‘I am worried about pensions. I am worried about the debt of our countries. We will have less money,’ Taittinger said.

‘But we will always have the time to make love and drink Champagne, and we will do it even more.’
Like most of the major Champagne houses, Taittinger’s sales have been badly affected by the economic downturn, with volumes down 10% during 2009.

But Taittinger said he expected sales to rise 10-20% this year, aided by 40% year-on-year growth in China. Champagne’s only competitor? ‘Viagra’.

‘China is the new United States,’ he said. ‘There is no doubt that it will be a strong market in 15 years. It will be much better than the US.’

And he said that ‘nothing is better’ than a glass of Champagne to help forget the stress and pressures of the modern world.

‘We are an affordable luxury. For one hour we can behave like the Queen of England.’

Richard Woodard


The mystery surrounding what happens when bubbles collide has finally been busted. And knowing how bubbles bounce apart and fuse together could improve the quality of ice-cream and champagne as well as increase efficiency in the mining industry.

In research led by the University of Melbourne, and published online this week in the Proceedings of the National Academy of Sciences (PNAS), a team of chemical engineers, chemists and mathematicians have united to measure the force between bubbles during a collision.

Associate Professor Raymond Dagastine from the Particulate Fluids Processing Centre (PFPC) in the Department of Chemical and Biomolecular Engineering at the University of Melbourne says knowledge of how bubbles move and collide will impact numerous industries.

“By understanding how bubbles bounce off each other and mold together, we will be able to improve things like the stability of ice-cream and the stability of bubbles in champagne. The findings could also be used to improve water waste treatment, and increase efficiency in the mining industry,” he says.

The force between bubbles during collision was previously too small to measure, however thanks to advances in technology such as nano-fabrication facilities and the Atomic Force Microscope; the team were able to study bubbles colliding at various speeds.

Research team member Professor Derek Chan from the PFPC and the Department of Mathematics and Statistics at the University of Melbourne says these findings could also eventually be used to study the behaviors of living cells in our bodies.

The project also included researchers from IMRE (Institute of Materials Research and Engineering), IHPC (Institute of High Performance Computing) and ICES (Institute of Chemical and Engineering Sciences) in Singapore.

University of Melbourne