“Benvenuto Brunello 2022” Preview – Filippo Magnani

Tasting fresh, elegant, new vintage Brunello wines, a tempting invitation to explore the magnificent wine land of Montalcino…

From 11th to 21st November, the village of Montalcino under the Consorzio del Vino Brunello di Montalcino, hosted by “Benvenuto Brunello” which is dedicated to the new vintages of this famous wine. The 2022 edition gathered some influential wine writers, journalists, bloggers and traders from around the world to present the Rosso di Montalcino 2021, Brunello 2018 , and the Brunello Riserva 2017. 137 wineries and 300 ready-to-taste-labels read to be released on the market from January 2023.  For the first time, on 17th November, “Brunello Day” made its debut simultaneously in the cities of London, New York City, Los Angeles and Toronto. The last 3 days of the event in Montalcino were open to the public by ticket. A unique opportunity for wine lovers to enjoy themselves in the increasingly innovative and prestigious territory of Montalcino and furthermore to get a chance to meet the brilliant producers of this territory.

A unique territory for the pure expression of Sangiovese 

The production area of Brunello corresponds to the Historical Limits of the Municipality of Montalcino, a picturesque village, just 40 km south of Siena, which is surrounded by vineyards, olive groves and historical sites. The Montalcino district comprises 3,500 hectares of vineyards registered under the DOC and DOCG designations. The production area is in the shape of a square, around the town and it’s very interesting to go through the microclimate differences in such a small territory. It is a dry land that enclaves a multitude of combinations of microclimates and soils. In general terms, the grapes located in the cooler northern areas of the DOCG tend to ripen more slowly. These vineyard sites are located in higher-elevation hills (not over 600 metres) and are planted in gravelly Galestro soil. On the south side, the grapes are hosted in quite another environment. The soils are richer, like clay, the sunlight is more intense, sea breezes blow from the Tyrrhenian Sea, and the wines result more powerful. Furthermore, the presence in the South of Mount Amiata (1740m) has an important influence by shielding the vineyards from strong atmospheric phenomena and provide breezes that keep the climate dry and the vines’ healthy.

The Sangiovese Grosso – the fingerprint of Brunello 

Brunello di Montalcino is a 100% Sangiovese-based wine that needs long periods of aging before the quality peak.  Once reached, it represents a true champion of balance, complexity, and maturity. Sangiovese is the only grape allowed in the Brunello di Montalcino DOCG and Rosso DOC. It is a very sensitive native grape, one of the highest quality varieties that needs careful practicing, and impeccable attention to its production process, harvest and vinification.  It is a variety that shows off fragrant notes of cherry and plum, hints of spice and an extraordinary texture. The natural tannic structure and high acidity levels of the Sangiovese are the main factors of its longevity. It performs differently in each different site and changes depending on its environment. The terroir combined with the play of time has always given elegant wines with perfectly balanced, rich bouquets. Brunello di Montalcino never fails to be a surprise. It is an example of an impressive year by year quality persistence and every vintage looks at a different profile of the beauty of Sangiovese variety, revealing a different nuance of its character each time.

A successful wine story 

The road that leads Montalcino to be the phenomenon that it is today is a path that speaks of great difficulties, resilience, and a success that in the world of Italian wine has no equal. Many interpreters, local producers, important winemakers and wine families from other regions and even international investors, but who all produce Brunello with the same grape, under the same strict rules and with the same quality objectives. The shared path and consistency of nature at its best, is perhaps the greatest strength and energy of the ascent, and subsequent permanence of Brunello di Montalcino among the wines that we can define legendary. The echo of success, in the last 50 years is continually expanding and there is no oenophile that doesn’t proudly display Brunello wines on their precious wine shelf. Today, the popularity of Brunello di Montalcino continues on world markets, thanks to a sharply rising average price, a good hold on volumes, and further growth in strategic markets, already protagonists of a boom in demand over the previous two years. The results are noted by the Consorzio del Vino Brunello di Montalcino, in the release of data recorded by the new Price Observatory on sales over the first nine months of the year. According to the sample of wineries, accounting for 28% of designation sales, the growth trend in September registers + 21.5% in terms of value, with a leap in average prices of “Vintage” and “Riserva” products – now close to 27 Euros per bottle ex cellar (+ 14%, with peaks of over 24% in the USA) – well beyond the inflationary push. Also on the rise, surprisingly for a not very rich last vintage (2017), are the volumes, up by 6%. The projection over the 12 months of 2022, according to the Consortium, should bring a total value of Brunello sales close to 250 million Euros. Numbers for Rosso di Montalcino are also up, with rises in both value (+ 20%) and volume (+ 9%).

In Italy it is known by 2 out of 3 consumers, surpassing in notoriety even the nearby Tuscan Giants. This is the data collected by Wine Intelligence that analysed the strength and recognizability of the 46 main appellations made in Italy. Domestic demand proceeds very well, confirmed as strongly rising and now representing about one third of the entire market thanks to a growth in volumes of over 17%, with values at + 31%. Overall, in the first nine months of this year, nearly 7 million bottles of Brunello di Montalcino were sold between “Vintage”, “Vigna” (i.e., single-vineyard) and “Riserva” products, the latter being the protagonist of a very strong increase over the same period in 2021.

Montalcino, a dream wine travel destination

Montalcino was a very important stop of the Via Francigena, a road that ran from England to Rome and, therefore, it welcomed and hosted important men of power, nobles, politicians, popes… The great Wines of Montalcino were crafted to satisfy the illustrious visitors who were traveling to reach the Eternal City, and that’s why the hamlet has always displayed absolute quality winemaking for centuries.  Montalcino today is internationally affirmed as an authentic, high-end wine destination. Visiting Montalcino is not just about tasting.  It has to do with the history of its people, and it helps you to understand why wine is so integrated into the culture of its inhabitants, who from generation to generation continue to pass on their passion and know-how. The town welcomes many visitors and the care of its hospitality has become just as important as the attention to its wine. Ancient buildings and modern B&B, luxurious accommodation within the wine estates and impeccable hotels. The cellars are open to all visitors and the experiences to participate in are numerous. It is possible to choose the itinerary that best suits their own needs, and each chosen path knows how to leave its mark. The rolling hills of Montalcino are also the setting for two important sporting events, where professional, competitive, and amateur cyclists and walkers can take up the challenge or try their hand at routes of different intensities and difficulties: the Brunello Crossing (for the walkers) and L’Eroica (for the cyclists) for example.

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“Monopoly Napa Valley Edition” unveiled this week

The World’s Most Popular Game Monopoly now has a Napa Valley Inspired edition Featuring Napa Cellars Winery, among other local businesses and Landmarks. Top Trumps, the American division of Winning Moves International (creators of classic games and puzzles) this week released “MONOPOLY Napa Valley Edition” under license from Hasbro.

This version of the game replaces famous Atlantic City squares (from Boardwalk to Park Place) with representations of much-loved Napa Valley cultural sites, historic landmarks, and time-honored businesses, alongside customized Community Chest and Chance playing cards to ensure each detail of the game pays homage to the iconic wine region destination.

Napa Valley is well known for its iconic wineries, Michelin-starred restaurants and stunning views from the valley to the Mayacamas mountains.

Napa Cellars, an Oakville tasting room and winery deeply rooted in the heart of Napa Valley for nearly 50 years, is one of the properties featured on the board. Beyond its square between “Free Parking” and “Chance” spaces on the Napa Valley edition of the iconic MONOPOLY board, the winery can be found on a Chance playing card, which reads “The sun is shining, and Napa Cellars is calling. Make a reservation for a picnic amongst the vines. Pay 150.” Napa Cellars can also be found on a Community Chest playing card, which reads: “Napa Cellars consulted you to craft the next vintage. Collect 200.”  Other wineries featured include Beringer Vineyards, Sterling Vineyards, Frank Family Vineyards, and Hall Wines.

 

“We’re thrilled to launch MONOPOLY Napa Valley Edition in time for the holidays and to celebrate one of the most beloved, culturally rich and geographically beautiful wine regions in the world. We’ve spent months creating a portrayal of the area’s dynamic communities that we hope locals and visitors alike will enjoy for years to come,” says Jennifer Tripsea, a representative from Top Trumps USA. “We’ve incorporated important feedback from locals to truly make this a fun and engaging game for Napa Valley residents and beyond.”

The Monopoly Napa Valley Edition is available for $39.95 USD on Amazon, CVS and www.toptrumps.us. The game is also for sale in several local retailers, including Napa Cellars’ Oakville tasting room along historic Highway 29.

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How to start off an evening in London ….

How to start off an evening …… with a coupe of Barons de Rothschild ‘Reserve Ritz” Brut NV, at the Rivoli Bar at the Ritz London – what can I say?

This is one of my favorite cocktail lounges in London.  It’s intimate and decadent with an art deco interior inspired by the Orient Express.

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Berry Bros. & Rudd – Some History and the Women Behind the Brand

On my way to 67 Pall Mall Wine Club for a meeting, I had some time, so I wandered into No.3…Just stepping through the front door it was a feast for my senses …. the ancient floorboards, mahogany wall paneling, antique furniture, Royal Warrants, old wine books and catalogs.  Looking closer I saw portraits of former Royal family members who were regular customers, and a framed letter from the White Star Line informing Berry Brothers of the loss of 69 cases of wine and spirits in the sinking of the Titanic in 1912. What history! In short, the Berry Bros. & Rudd head office is a historian’s dream.

No. 3 St. James’s Street, London

No. 3 St. James’s Street is now used as the company’s headquarters. No.3, as it’s known, contained Berry Bros. & Rudd’s main retail premises until mid-2017, when these moved around the corner to a purpose-built shop at 63 Pall Mall.

Berry Bros. & Rudd, founded in 1698, and is Britain’s oldest, family-owned wine and spirits merchant. Still trading from No.3 St James’s Street, London, they have two Royal Warrants and five Masters of Wine on staff. Their services also include Other services it offers include wine investment, wine storage, a wine club, tutored tastings, wine events and educational courses.

Royal Warrants

Berry Bros. & Rudd has been the official wine supplier to the British Royal Family since King George III and received its first Royal Warrant of Appointment in 1903 from King Edward VII. Queen Elizabeth II granted the company her royal warrant in 1952, while Prince Charles, now King Charles lll, granted his in 1998.

Despite being 324 years old in 2022, Berry Bros. & Rudd remains at the forefront of wine and spirits innovation. Their current range of over than 4,000 wines is sourced from over 25 countries.

Berry Bros. & Rudd seems to embrace progress, and at the same time value their traditions. Still run by members of the Berry and Rudd families and they also continue to supply the British Royal Family, since King George III.

Women of Berry Bros. & Rudd

Berry Bro & Rudd has been run by the same two families for centuries; It has survived world wars and pandemics, but there is a fleet of female leaders who have shown, and now show that this historic business can and emerge stronger than ever.

The family firm began life as a grocery store in 1698, founded by a woman now known as “Widow Bourne.”

Elizabeth Rudd “Lizzy” is the current Chairman, who is currently planting the seed for the next generation with her ambitious sustainability plans and creating affordable wine investments.

Emma Fox, Chief Executive Officer, was appointed July 2020.  She has been an independent director of the firm’s board since October 2017.

“Over the past few years as a director, I have got to know BB&R very well, I share its values and am passionate about a culture where people flourish and have fun,” Fox said.

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Discovering the Wine Secrets of Southeastern Sicily – Filippo Magnani

There are two things you can be sure of when taking a food and wine itinerary in Sicily: you will always learn something new, and you will always leave a piece of your heart there when you leave. From the 13th to the 15th of July a well-organized press tour by Assovini Sicilia, led a handful of international journalists in three intense days to discover the Southeastern part of Sicily.  First in the area around the village of Noto from the Baroque splendors, to the promised land of Nero d’Avola; and then in the territory of Vittoria, the area of the now unique Sicilian DOCG, with the homonymous Cerasuolo name. Many estates were visited, dozens of wines were tasted together with producers, and a combination of cuisine specialties of the island were interpreted by local cooks or starred chefs. A continuous temptation, and indeed, an inexhaustible discovery.

Sicily’s Southeast, the heart of the island in the center of the Mediterranean Sea
Sicily is in the heart of the Mediterranean Sea and the largest under vine area of Italy. An area that counts a multitude of appellations that are slowly becoming more and more famous thanks to the success of productions able to clearly express the combination of Sicilian microclimates. From the vineyards on the island of Pantelleria to the extreme fields on the slopes of Mount Etna, Sicily is an island of unparalleled beauty and diversity. Southeast Sicily certainly embodies the essence of Sicily and embraces some of the most important wine areas among the dense web of appellations of the island. Noto DOC was created in 1978 to protect the local historical passito of Moscato. Recently the regulation has been expanded to include red wines based on Nero d’Avola, which today covers up to 84% of the vineyards. The area has been under vines for thousands of years. It is a sun-kissed, warm territory but it benefits from the mitigating effect of the coastal proximity. From these hills the view of the island is open, the sea breeze envelops the atmosphere, and the lively green of the vineyards is matched with the dark soil. Surrounded by beautifully restored ocher-colored farms. The neat geometry of the vine rows is organized by dry stone walls, sometimes alternated with monumental plants of prickly pears, and finally some small, sparse patches of trees that almost seem to wonder what they are doing there…

The scenario around the wine district of Vittoria is different. The territories of production include the municipalities of Ragusa, Vittoria, Comiso, Acate, Chiaramonte Gulfi, Santa Croce Camerina, Niscemi, Gela, Caltagirone, Licodia Eubea, Riesi, Butera, Mazzarino and Mazzarrone (five in the Ragusa province, two in the Caltanissetta province and two in the Catania province). The area is delimited to the north by the Erei mountains and to the south by the Mediterranean Sea. The inland is occupied by the majestic Iblei mountains from which many waterways descend. The streams have dug through the land and shaped valleys on which the vineyards climb, and through the thermal breezes coming from the coast, which can deeply affect the climate, creating abnormal temperature excursions close to twenty degrees. On Vittoria’s hills, the soils are differentiated by Millennial stormwater runoff, producers are able to use this to produce red wines characterized by structure and sapidity versus tremendously drinkable wines of immediacy of fruit. To visit the vineyard estates, it is necessary to go down into these valleys completely submerged by cultivations.

The possibilities are endless. The variability of climatic conditions with the multiplicity and succession of the soil (clay, sandy-loamy, limestone soils) allow producers to interpret their personal and intimate Sicily in their bottles of wines. The finesse of the Cerasuolo by Vittoria Docg is expressed in blends composed of the only two native vines allowed by the disciplinary: Nero d’Avola and Frappato, in 50 to 70% and 30 to 50% respectively. The two contrasting varieties prove to be extremely complementary. The fragrance of Frappato goes perfectly with the more meditative aspect of Nero d’Avola, creating unique wines. These styles of wines are neither light nor heavy, they go beyond any concept of the seasonality of wines. The depth and structure of Nero d’Avola are lightened and harmonized by the fresher aromas and elegance of the fantastic Frappato. Wine must speak for the territory as much as it can give a little hint of the soul of its inhabitants. Vittoria’s wines are bright and exuberant, just like the people there.

Land of tales with a wide array of beautiful wine estates to visit
South-East Sicily is one of the most coveted wine destinations for wine lovers and wine connoisseurs. Wine tourism has become a key factor for territorial promotion. There is an increasing number of tourists who visit these lands just to discover the wine traditions. While visitors discover the mosaic of small and large wineries hidden in every corner of those lands, the protagonists of the Sicilian wine scene have understood the infinite potential of their land and they are moving towards the future, offering more impeccable travel proposals, starting from unique experiences in the cellar, through food delicatesse, to beautiful retreats. The “blend” of ancient traditions and modern cultivation practices with market strategies and investments for hospitality and tourism has made Sicily one of the most interesting wine destinations in Italy. The pulsating center of the area is Syracuse. The City of Syracuse combines works of the Greco-Roman era, spectacular squares, artisan boutiques, and of course the breathtaking shores and a crystal-clear sea. To the Southwest lies Val di Noto. The rolling hills or the valley frame a few beautiful late-baroque towns such as Noto, Ragusa, Modica and Scicli. Perfect places to enjoy gastronomic delights in small Osterie, Taverns, or Michelin-starred restaurants, surrounded by works of art and monuments that exude the history of man. The rest of the land is wild with luscious green vineyards, rocky ravines and prehistoric tombs, a thread woven between nature and man that run from the hills to an uncontaminated rugged coastline. A wide array of properties with great wine production and hospitality proposals for wine enthusiasts and wine professionals. Here are the wineries we visited during the magnificent tour.

Assovini
Assovini was founded in 1998 and it is the organization that most supported and carried out the territorial development project in the last 25 years for wine production and wine tourism. Today, along with 90 producers and nearly 900 labels produced, they are aiming to bring the fantastic value of Sicilian wines worldwide. In this direction Assovini in 2004 created the event Sicilia en premieur: A yearly itinerant event where the producers and the members of Assovini, lead a selected international press through tastings, tours, masterclasses, and conventions.

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